WINDOWS & BLINDS

Fit a pelmet above a window on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fix pelmet brackets above your window by drilling through plasterboard and dab into the solid wall behind for a secure hold.

PEL-01Measure up and buy your pelmet kitMeasure the width of the window recess and decide how far the pelmet should overhang each side, usually 50-100mm. Decide how far it needs to project from the wall to clear the curtain rail or blind, typically 100-150mm. Buy a pelmet board cut to length (or have one cut) and a pair of matching brackets, plus an extra bracket for spans over 1200mm.
1 each · Pelmet board (18mm MDF, cut to length)
2 pair · Pelmet brackets
PEL-02Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall above the window. A dull, slightly hollow sound with a firm base a few mm in usually means dot-and-dab plasterboard over solid brick or block. A solid knock all the way through means direct masonry with no dry lining. Wobbly plaster with a springy give and horizontal ridges felt through old wallpaper suggests lath and plaster. If the wall is a stud partition, run a detector or magnet along the surface to find a line of screw heads under the skim, or drill a small pilot hole: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud. Metal studs are common in flats, new builds, and anything refitted since the 1990s.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
PEL-03Mark bracket positions and check for pipes and cablesBefore you drill anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. Run your detector over the marked area, but treat it as a guide, not a guarantee: detectors miss deep cables, metal conduit, cable behind metal-backed board, and get confused by metal stud frames. If there's any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water. Mark bracket positions 40-50mm above the window frame, spaced 300-400mm apart and no more than 150mm from each end, using a spirit level to keep the line true.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Pencil
PEL-04Drill and fit the right fixing for your wallOn dot-and-dab, drill through the plasterboard and the adhesive dab behind it into the solid masonry, using a 6mm masonry bit and a fixing long enough to pass through the void and reach at least 30mm into brick or block, usually 60-75mm overall. Fit a matching wall plug before driving the screw. On solid brick or block with no dry lining, drill 40mm deep with a 6mm bit, plug, and use a 50mm screw. On lath and plaster, drill through the plaster and lath the same way as dot-and-dab, checking the surface is flat first and packing out any dip. On a timber stud, drive a 45-50mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud with no plug needed. On a metal stud, never use a wood screw or a plastic plug, both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw for light loads, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor. Because curtains pull the pelmet outward when drawn, a metal stud alone is often not enough. Fit a timber noggin between the studs first, or fix through to the masonry behind, if you have any doubt about the load.
1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm
1 pack · Wall plugs (pack of 10)
1 pack · Wood screws, 50mm (pack)
4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack)
PEL-05Fit the brackets to the wallHold each bracket against its marked position and drive the fixing home, checking the bracket sits flush and doesn't rock. Recheck the level across all brackets before fully tightening, since a small gap under one bracket will show once the pelmet is on. On dot-and-dab, if a bracket sits over an air gap rather than a dab, pack it out with a small offcut of timber before tightening so it doesn't crush the board.
1 pack · Timber packers (offcuts)
PEL-06Hang the pelmet boardLift the pelmet board onto the brackets and check it sits level and square to the window. Secure it to each bracket from underneath with short screws so no fixings show on the front. Give the board a firm pull to check it's solid before letting go.
1 pack · Screws, 20mm
PEL-07Tidy up and finishVacuum up any dust or plaster debris from drilling. Fill any unused pilot holes with a small amount of filler and leave to dry. Touch up the filled area with matching paint once it's fully cured.
1 each · Multi-purpose filler (small tub)
1 each · Touch-up paint

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides