Fit a pelmet above a window on a metal stud wall

Identify your wall type above the window, check for hidden cables and pipes, then fit the pelmet with the correct bracket fixing.

PW-01Prepare the area and check your pelmet boardClear the windowsill and move any furniture below out of the way. Lay a dust sheet over the sill and floor to catch dust and dropped screws. Check your pelmet board overhangs the window recess by about 50-100mm on each side so it sits square when fitted.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Pelmet board (primed MDF, 1200x150x18mm)

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PW-02Work out what's behind the wall above the windowRun a stud detector or a magnet along the wall above the window, tracking any line of screw heads under the plaster skim. A hollow sound every 400-600mm as you tap usually means studwork; a solid sound all the way across usually means brick or block. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud track, and reddish or grey masonry dust means solid brick or block. If the wall feels hollow with a skim finish over what turns out to be brick behind an air gap, it's dot-and-dab; if it's an older house and tapping gives a soft, slightly springy sound, it may be lath and plaster.

PW-03Mark your bracket positions and a level lineHold the pelmet board in place and mark where each bracket needs to go, roughly 50mm in from each end and one in the middle for boards over 900mm long. Use a spirit level to draw a level line connecting the marks. Double-check the line clears the top of the window frame and any curtain track fixed underneath.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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PW-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, including above windows, so sweep the whole area with a detector first. Detectors miss things too - deep cables, metal conduit, cables behind metal-backed board, or anything outside the usual safe zones - so still drill cautiously and stop if you feel resistance or see anything unexpected. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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PW-05Fixing into solid brick or blockDrill each bracket hole with a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of 45mm, then push in a matching wall plug. Drive a 50mm screw through the bracket into the plug until it's firm but not overtightened. Solid masonry is the strongest fixing you'll find for this job.

1 pack · Wall plugs (pack of 20)

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1 pack · Screws 50mm (pack of 10)

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PW-06Fixing into plasterboard on timber studsOnce your pilot hole confirms timber dust, centre each bracket over the stud line you marked earlier. Drill a 3mm pilot hole into the middle of the stud, then drive a 60mm wood screw straight through the bracket into the timber. No plug is needed - timber holds a screw thread on its own.

1 pack · Wood screws 60mm (pack of 10)

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PW-07Fixing into plasterboard on metal studsIf your pilot hole brought out fine steel swarf, you have a metal stud. Never use a wood screw or a plain plastic plug here - both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use self-drilling metal-stud screws where a bracket lines up with the steel track, or a rated hollow-wall toggle fixing where it falls between studs into plain plasterboard. A pelmet is light, but if yours will carry a heavy curtain, pole, or anything that pulls on the bracket, fit a timber noggin between the studs before fixing rather than relying on the steel or the board alone.

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack of 10)

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1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (pack of 4)

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1 each · Timber noggin (50x50mm, 400mm length)

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PW-08Fixing into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab plasterboard sits on adhesive dabs over solid masonry, with a gap of roughly 10-40mm behind it. Use a fixing long enough to pass through the board, cross the gap, and still bite at least 30mm into the masonry - typically a 75-100mm masonry screw with a matching plug. Drill through the plasterboard first, then continue into the brick or block behind, checking the drill doesn't suddenly drop into a void where a dab is missing.

1 pack · Masonry screws 75mm (pack of 10)

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PW-09Fixing into lath and plasterLath and plaster is common in older homes and cracks easily if you fix straight into the plaster or the thin timber laths behind it. Locate the solid vertical studs or joists behind the laths using your detector and pilot hole test, then drive a 45mm wood screw into solid timber. If you can't find solid timber under a bracket, use a rated plasterboard-style toggle fixing instead, but expect it to feel less secure than a modern board.

1 pack · Wood screws 45mm (pack of 10)

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PW-10Fit the brackets and hang the pelmet boardFix all your brackets to the wall using the method matched to your wall type, checking each one is tight and doesn't wobble. Lift the pelmet board onto the brackets and secure it from inside, using short screws so nothing pokes through the front face. Check the board sits flush against the wall along its whole length.

3 each · Pelmet brackets

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PW-11Check the level and adjust if neededRun a spirit level along the top of the fitted pelmet board and check it end to end. If one side sits low, loosen that bracket, pack it slightly, or re-drill a fraction higher rather than forcing the screw. Give the board a firm push at each end to confirm it's solid before you move on.

PW-12Tidy upVacuum up dust and any masonry or plaster debris from the sill and floor. Fold the dust sheet away, wipe down tools, and store any spare fixings for future use. Bin off-cuts of timber or board safely.

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