Fit a pelmet above a window on a lath and plaster wall — HomeGraft

Measure, mark and fit a level pelmet above your window, fixing securely into solid material behind the wall surface.

PW-01Plan and mark the pelmet lineMeasure the window width and decide how far the pelmet should overhang each side, usually 50-100mm. Mark a level line above the window frame with a spirit level, leaving enough clearance underneath for curtains or blinds to move freely. Mark the centre point too, so your brackets end up evenly spaced either side.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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PW-02Work out what's behind the plasterLath and plaster is a thin skim on timber laths, nailed either to timber studs or joists, or to timber battens (grounds) fixed to solid masonry behind. Tap along your marked line every 100mm or so: a shallow, slightly springy knock roughly every 400-600mm usually means timber behind; a dull, solid knock right along the line usually means masonry close behind. Still run a detector along the line and check for a steady beep or a line of screw heads under a magnet, since a wall rebuilt or patched in the last 30 years could have hidden metal track behind old-look plaster. If a pilot hole brings out fine pale dust it's timber; grey metallic swarf means steel.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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PW-03Check for cables and pipes, and know how to isolateCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a detector can miss ones that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard. Before drilling, find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind your marks, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, whatever the detector told you.

PW-04Fix into timber if that's what you foundFor timber studs, joists or grounds, drill a 3mm pilot hole through the plaster and lath into the centre of the timber, then drive a 4mm x 50mm wood screw so at least 30mm sits in solid timber. Never let the lath itself carry any weight — it's thin and brittle and will crack. If your marked bracket position lands between timbers with nothing solid behind, shift the bracket slightly to line up with the timber, or fit a batten instead.

1 pack of 20 · Wood screws 4x50mm

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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PW-05Fix into metal track if that's what you foundMetal track behind lath and plaster is unusual but possible if a section has been rebuilt. Never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor instead. A single metal-stud fixing won't hold a pelmet's weight or the pull it gets when curtains are drawn, so fit a timber batten across two or more studs first (next step), or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any.

1 pack of 10 · Self-drilling metal stud screws

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1 pack of 4 · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors

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PW-06Fix into masonry if that's what you foundFor solid masonry behind the plaster and battens, drill a 6mm hole for a No.8 screw and matching wall plug, going through the plaster, lath and batten and at least 40mm into the brick or block behind. Use a masonry bit, and clear the dust from the hole before pushing the plug in. Check the fixing feels solid and doesn't spin freely before fitting the bracket.

1 pack of 20 · Wall plugs

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1 pack of 10 · Masonry screws 6x60mm

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1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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PW-07Fit a batten if the fixing points don't line upIf the bracket positions need to fall somewhere with no solid timber or masonry close enough behind, screw a 25x50mm timber batten horizontally along your marked line first, fixed at two or more solid points using whichever method above matches what's behind it. Then screw the pelmet brackets into the batten rather than straight into the old plaster. This spreads the load so the lath and plaster never takes any weight.

1 1.2m length · Timber batten 25x50mm

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1 pack of 20 · Wood screws 4x50mm

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PW-08Fit the bracketsScrew each bracket into its fixing point, checking against your level line as you go. Space brackets every 400-600mm along the pelmet length, with one close to each end. Tighten fully, but stop as soon as the bracket sits flush and firm — don't force it against old plaster.

3 each · Pelmet brackets

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PW-09Attach the pelmet board and check levelRest the pelmet board on the brackets and check it's level before fixing anything. Screw up through the brackets into the underside of the board, or through pre-drilled holes if your kit has them. Check the overhang is even at both ends, then give the board a firm push to make sure nothing moves.

1 each · Pelmet board or kit

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1 pack of 10 · Wood screws for board

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PW-10Tidy up and finishFill any misplaced pilot holes with a small amount of filler and leave it to dry fully. Sand lightly and touch up with matching paint once dry. Vacuum dust from the floor and windowsill, and remove your dust sheet.

1 small tub · Multi-purpose filler

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1 sheet · Fine sandpaper

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1 tester pot · Matching paint

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1 each · Dust sheet

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