Fit a pelmet above a window on a timber stud wall

Fit a window pelmet safely, checking your wall type and hidden cables or pipes, then fixing and levelling it securely.

PW-01Plan the pelmet position and gather your toolsMeasure the window frame width and decide how far the pelmet should overhang each side (usually 50-100mm per side is enough to hide curtain track ends). Decide the height above the frame — 50-75mm is typical. Gather your tools and materials before you start so you're not stopping halfway through.

1 each · Pelmet board (MDF or timber, cut to length)

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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PW-02Confirm what your wall is actually made ofA stud detector, or a magnet run slowly over the wall, will pick up screw heads in a line if it's plasterboard on studs. Tap the wall — a hollow sound between fixed points usually means studs behind plasterboard, while a dull solid sound means brick or block. If in doubt, drill a small pilot hole: fine pale dust means timber stud, grey gritty dust means masonry or dot-and-dab, and fine grey swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · Stud detector

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PW-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones' — a detector helps but can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

PW-04Mark and level the bracket positionsHold a bracket in position above the window and mark its fixing holes with a pencil. Use the spirit level to mark a second bracket at the same height on the other side. Double-check both marks line up before you drill anything.

2 each · Pelmet brackets

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PW-05Drill and fix the brackets for your wall typeOn a timber stud, drill a pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a wood screw. On plasterboard between studs, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the pelmet's weight — never a plain wall plug, which will pull straight out. On solid brick or block, drill to the plug depth given on the packet and fit the correct wall plug and screw. On dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs and bite into the masonry behind. On lath and plaster, aim for a stud or joist behind the laths where possible, since the plaster itself is brittle and can crack.

4 each · Wood screws (No.8 x 50mm)

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4 each · Toggle or hollow-wall anchors

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4 each · Wall plugs (masonry)

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1 each · Drill with pilot and masonry bits

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PW-06Fit the pelmet board to the bracketsLift the pelmet board onto the fixed brackets and screw it in place from underneath or through the back, depending on your bracket type. Check it's level along its length and adjust before fully tightening. Make sure curtain track or pole clears the top of the window frame underneath.

6 each · Small wood screws (No.6 x 25mm)

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PW-07Check the fixing and tidy upGive the pelmet a firm downward and outward tug to check it's secure before hanging curtains on it. Fill any leftover marking or test holes with a dab of filler and let it dry. Vacuum up dust and pack away your tools.

1 each · Filler (small tube)

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