Fit a robe hook to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a bathroom robe hook safely, finding solid support behind the wall before drilling and choosing the right fixing.

RH-01Get the area readyClear the space under where the hook is going and lay a dust sheet on the floor. Wipe the wall clean and dry so you can see the plaster surface properly. Old lath and plaster crumbles easily, so work slowly and keep a dustpan handy for debris.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 roll · Masking tape

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RH-02Work out what's behind the plaster at hook heightLath and plaster is a thin skin of plaster on timber laths, fixed either to timber studs and noggins or straight onto solid masonry. Run your detector over the spot, then tap either side of your mark: a dull, solid knock usually means a stud or masonry behind, a hollow rattle means you're between laths with nothing solid there. A robe hook takes real pulling force, so you want to land the fixing on a stud, noggin, or the masonry behind, not on plaster and lath alone.

1 each · Cable, pipe and stud detector

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RH-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a bathroom wall, and a detector can still miss ones that are deep, in metal conduit, or outside the usual safe zones. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.

RH-04Mark and drill the pilot holeMark your fixing point with a pencil, then stick a strip of masking tape over it to stop the plaster surface chipping as the drill bites. Drill slowly at first to get through the plaster skin cleanly, then ease off pressure as you cross the lath gap, since old lath can crack if you push too hard. Check what comes out on the bit: pale plaster dust then timber dust means you've hit a stud or noggin; if it stays soft and crumbly with no timber, you're still in plaster and lath only.

1 each · Drill with pilot bit (3mm for timber, 4mm for masonry)

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RH-05Choose the right fixing for what's behind the plasterIf you've hit a timber stud or noggin, drill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the timber and use a wood screw long enough to go at least 30mm into solid wood. If you've hit masonry behind the lath, drill a 6mm hole through to the brick or block, fit a wall plug, and use a screw long enough to pass through the plaster, lath, any gap, and still bite 30mm into the masonry. If there's nothing solid behind your exact spot, don't rely on the plaster and lath alone; either shift the hook a few centimetres to land on a stud or noggin, or use a proper spring or gravity toggle rated for the hook's weight, seated through both plaster and lath.

2 each · Wood screws 40mm

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2 each · Rawlplug wall plugs (red, 6mm)

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2 each · Masonry screws 50mm

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2 each · Spring toggle fixing (rated for hook weight)

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RH-06Fit the hookHold the hook or its backing plate against the wall and check it sits level using a small spirit level. Drive the screws home so the plate sits flush and doesn't rock, but don't overtighten into old plaster, as it can crack around the fixing. Fit the hook onto the plate if it's a two-part design.

1 each · Robe hook (with fixing kit)

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1 each · Small spirit level

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RH-07Test the fixing and tidy upHang a damp towel or dressing gown on the hook and pull down gently to check it holds firm without movement in the wall. Sweep or vacuum up plaster dust and remove the dust sheet. If there's a hairline crack in the plaster around the fixing, fill it with a small amount of filler and smooth it once dry.

1 small tub · Fine surface filler

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1 each · Filling knife

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