Fit a robe hook to a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a bathroom robe hook securely, working out your wall type first and choosing the right fixing so it won't pull out.

AB-01Gather your tools and materialsGet everything together before you start: a detector, cordless drill, a mix of drill bits, a screwdriver, spirit level, pencil and masking tape. Check your robe hook kit for fixing screws, but you may need to buy proper wall fixings separately depending on your wall type.

1 each · Robe hook (single, with backplate)

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1 each · Multi-scanner detector (stud, cable, pipe)

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1 each · Spirit level (small)

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1 each · Pencil

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AB-02Check for pipes and cables, and know your shut-offsCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones'. Run your detector over the area, but still assume something could be there and drill carefully to prove it isn't — detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector even more. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.

AB-03Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall — solid brick or block sounds dull and dense all over, while stud walls sound hollow between the uprights and solid on them. Run a magnet or detector along the line where screw heads would be to find the studs. If unsure, drill a small pilot hole: fine pale dust means timber, and fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud. This tells you which fixing method to use in the next steps.

1 each · Small drill bit (1.5mm)

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AB-04Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the robe hook backplate against the wall at your chosen height and mark the screw holes with a pencil. Use a spirit level to check the backplate is level before marking. Double-check the marks line up with your wall type findings from the previous step.

1 each · Spirit level (small)

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1 each · Pencil

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AB-05Drill through tile if your wall is tiledStick a small piece of masking tape over the mark to stop the drill bit skating on the glaze. Use a tile-rated bit on a slow speed with no hammer action until you're through the glaze and into the wall behind. Once through the tile, switch to the correct bit for your wall type before drilling deeper.

1 each · Glass and tile drill bit (6mm)

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1 each · Masking tape (roll)

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AB-06Fit the fixing — solid brick or blockDrill with hammer action using a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of 30–35mm, matching the length of your wall plug. Push a wall plug fully into the hole so it sits flush, then drive the screw into the plug through the backplate. Do this for both fixing points.

1 each · Masonry drill bit (6mm)

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2 each · Wall plugs (yellow, 6mm)

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2 each · Brass screw (40mm)

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AB-07Fit the fixing — plasterboard on timber studsIf a fixing point lands on the centre of a timber stud, drill a 2mm pilot hole to stop the wood splitting, then drive a wood screw straight in — no plug needed. If a hole falls between studs, use a plasterboard fixing rated for the weight instead, as covered in the dot-and-dab step below (the method is the same for plasterboard on studs or on dabs).

2 each · Wood screw (40mm)

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1 each · Pilot drill bit (2mm)

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AB-08Fit the fixing — plasterboard on metal studsNever use a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud — it will strip straight through the 0.5mm steel. If a fixing point lands on the stud itself, use a self-drilling screw made for metal studs, which cuts its own thread without a pilot hole. If it falls between the studs, use a self-drilling hollow-wall anchor or spring toggle rated for the hook's weight, pushed or drilled through the plasterboard only. A robe hook is light, so this is fine — but a metal stud will not hold anything heavy or anything that pulls away from the wall, such as a towel rail or grab rail. Those need a timber noggin or pattress fitted between the studs, or fixing through to the masonry behind.

1 pack · Self-drilling metal stud/hollow-wall fixings (pack of 4)

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1 each · Drill bit (5mm)

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AB-09Fit the fixing — dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab plasterboard sits on adhesive blobs over solid masonry, with an air gap of anywhere from 10mm to 40mm behind the board. Drill a pilot hole slowly to feel where the board ends and the gap or masonry begins, so you know how deep to go. Use a fixing long enough to bridge the gap and bite into the masonry behind — usually a 60–75mm frame fixing or long wall plug and screw — rather than relying on the plasterboard alone.

2 each · Long frame fixing (60mm)

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AB-10Fit the fixing — lath and plasterLath and plaster walls are old timber strips covered in plaster, and the plaster is brittle and easy to crack. Drill slowly with no hammer action, easing off if you feel the bit break through into a void behind the lath. If a hole lines up with a lath or batten, a screw can bite into it directly; otherwise use a spring toggle or plasterboard-rated fixing suited to old, softer plaster, and keep the load light.

2 each · Spring toggle fixing

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AB-11Attach the robe hook and check it's secureScrew the backplate to the wall using the fixings you've just fitted, then clip or screw the hook onto the backplate. Give it a firm downward and outward tug to make sure it doesn't move or creak. If it feels loose, remove it and refit using a stronger fixing appropriate to your wall type.

AB-12Tidy upVacuum up any drill dust or tile debris from the floor and sink area. Wipe down the wall and tiles with a damp cloth to remove dust and masking tape residue. Dispose of any offcuts and packaging.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Damp cloth

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