SHELVING & STORAGE

Fit an alcove wardrobe rail to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a wardrobe rail across an alcove, checking what's behind each wall before drilling and choosing the right fixing.

AW-01Clear the alcove and set upTake everything out of the alcove and lay a dust sheet on the floor. Old lath and plaster crumbles easily, so protect the carpet or flooring before you start. Keep a torch handy, the corners of an alcove are often dim.
1 each · Dust sheet
AW-02Work out what's behind the lath and plaster on each sideLath and plaster is thin wood strips nailed to timber, then covered in plaster, so behind it you'll find either solid brick or blockwork (typical on a chimney breast) or a timber stud partition (typical on a dividing wall). Run a stud detector or magnet over each wall and tap along it: a dead, solid sound means masonry, a lighter, hollow sound at roughly 400-600mm centres means timber studs. Drill a small 3mm test hole in an unseen spot; timber dust means a stud, a dull stop after 20-25mm means masonry behind the plaster. Metal stud framing doesn't apply here, lath and plaster predates metal studs, so if a detector picks up steel it's more likely a later plasterboard repair patch than the original wall.
1 each · Stud/multi-detector
1 each · Drill bit, 3mm (test hole)
AW-03Check for cables and pipes before drillingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind old metal lath. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the plaster, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, don't rely on the detector alone.
AW-04Mark the rail height and check it's levelDecide how high you want the rail, around 1600-1700mm from the floor gives good clearance for full-length hanging. Mark this point on both side walls of the alcove, then use a spirit level to draw a level line between them rather than measuring up from the floor, which is rarely flat. Mark the exact fixing points for the rail end sockets on each side, roughly 50mm in from the front edge of the alcove.
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Pencil
AW-05Drill and fix into a solid masonry side wallFor a masonry side, usually the chimney breast, drill through the marked point with a 7mm masonry bit, through the lath and plaster and into the brick or block behind, around 45-50mm deep in total. Push in a red plastic wall plug rated for masonry, then drive in a 50-60mm screw, the extra length allows for the 15-20mm lath and plaster void before the screw bites into solid material. Wear a dust mask, old lime plaster throws up a lot of fine dust.
1 each · Masonry drill bit, 7mm
1 pack · Red wall plugs (pack)
1 pack · Screws, 50-60mm (pack)
1 each · Dust mask
AW-06Drill and fix into a timber stud side wallFor a stud side wall, find the centre of the timber upright behind the lath, not just the lath itself, using your earlier test hole as a guide; studs typically sit at 400-600mm centres. Drill a 4mm pilot hole through the plaster, lath and into the centre of the stud, then drive in a 60-65mm wood screw straight into the timber, no wall plug is needed. Avoid screwing into a gap between laths where there's no timber behind it, it won't hold.
1 each · Wood drill bit, 4mm
1 pack · Wood screws, 60-65mm (pack)
AW-07Fit the rail sockets and hang the railScrew a heavy-duty rail end socket to each side wall at your marked, level points, tightening until snug but not overtight, over-tightening can crack old lath and plaster. Cut the rail to the exact internal width of the alcove if needed, then drop it into the two sockets. Push firmly on the middle of the rail to check it doesn't flex excessively before loading it up.
1 pair · Heavy-duty rail end sockets (pair)
1.2 metre · Wardrobe rail, 25mm oval, chrome
AW-08Load test and tidy upHang a few heavy items on the rail and leave it for a few minutes, checking the sockets haven't moved and the wall hasn't cracked further. Fill any test holes or gaps around the fixings with a little multi-purpose filler, let it dry, then touch up with matching paint if needed. Vacuum up all plaster dust and debris from the floor and skirting before putting the dust sheet away.
1 small tub · Multi-purpose filler
1 sheet · Fine sandpaper
1 each · Matching paint (tester pot)

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