SHELVING & STORAGE

Fit slatted airing cupboard shelves to a lath and plaster wall

Fit sturdy slatted shelves in your airing cupboard, working out your wall type first so every bearer is fixed safely and securely.

ACS-01Empty the cupboard and gather your toolsTake everything out of the cupboard, including any removable cylinder jacket or cover, and lay a dust sheet on the floor. Check for old brackets, loose insulation or pipework that needs sorting before you start. Lay out your tools and materials so you don't have to stop halfway through with dusty hands.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Cordless drill driver
ACS-02Mark your shelf heights and level linesDecide how many shelves you need and leave enough gap between them for towels or bedding. Measure up from the floor and mark each shelf height on both side walls in pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a level line front to back on each wall, and check the marks line up on both sides before you drill anything.
1 each · Spirit level 600mm
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Tape measure
ACS-03Work out what your cupboard walls are made ofAiring cupboards are usually boxed-in stud partitions, but the wall behind can be lath and plaster in older houses, timber or metal stud in newer or refitted homes, or solid brick and block if the cupboard backs onto a chimney breast or party wall. Tap along the wall - a dull thud means solid masonry, a hollow sound between uprights means a stud wall. Run your detector along the marked line to find the uprights and check the spacing, then drill a tiny pilot hole - timber dust means a wooden stud, fine grey swarf means metal.
ACS-04Check for pipes and cables, and find your stopcockCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a wall, and a detector will not catch everything - deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard can be missed, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. Before drilling, find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. This matters more in an airing cupboard, where cylinder pipework and electrics often run close to the walls - if in any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and be ready to turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
ACS-05Fix the side bearers to suit your wall typeOn lath and plaster, find the stud behind the lath and drive a 60mm wood screw through the plaster and lath into the centre of the stud - the lath and plaster alone will crumble under any load, so never fix into it on its own. On solid brick or block, drill 8mm holes to 50mm depth, fit a wall plug, and screw in. On plasterboard over timber studs, drive a 50-60mm wood screw into the centre of each stud. On plasterboard over metal studs, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load - never a plain plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel; if the fixing pulls away as weight is added, fit a timber noggin between the studs first. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and the adhesive dabs into the masonry behind, typically 75-100mm - check the gap with a pilot hole first. Whichever fixing you use, hold the batten to the level line, drill pilot holes, and recheck level before tightening fully.
2 each · Timber batten 44x21mm, 2.4m
1 box · Wood screws 60mm (box)
1 pack · Red wall plugs (pack of 50)
1 each · Masonry drill bit 8mm
1 pack · Metal stud cavity fixings (pack of 4)
1 each · Timber noggin offcut
ACS-06Fix the back bearer, if your cupboard needs oneIf the cupboard is deep enough that the shelf needs back support, mark and level the back wall the same way as the sides. Fix the bearer using whichever method matches that wall's construction from the previous step. Keep the top edge of every bearer level all the way round so the shelf sits flat.
1 each · Timber batten 44x21mm, 1.2m
ACS-07Cut and fit the slatted shelf boardsMeasure the gap between the walls at each shelf height separately, as old walls are rarely parallel. Cut the slatted panel to length, leaving a 2-3mm gap at each end for an easy fit. Rest the panel on the bearers and screw down through the slats into the bearers with short screws roughly every 300mm.
1 each · Slatted shelf panel, pine 900mm
1 box · Wood screws 25mm (box)
1 each · Panel saw
ACS-08Test the shelves and tidy upPush down firmly on each shelf to check it doesn't flex, creak or pull away from the wall. Refit the cylinder cover and any insulation you removed at the start. Vacuum up dust and offcuts, and take any old brackets or waste timber to be recycled or binned.
1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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