BATHROOMS

Hang a bathroom mirror on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Hang a bathroom mirror securely by identifying your wall type and using the correct fixing method.

MIR-01Gather your tools and check the mirrorCheck the mirror's total weight and how many fixing points it has, usually two keyhole slots or a bracket on the back. Lay out your tools: drill, spirit level, tape measure, pencil, stud/cable detector, and screwdriver. If the mirror has sharp glass edges, wear gloves when handling it.
1 each · Mirror with keyhole or bracket fixings
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Tape measure
MIR-02Protect the room and check your stopcockLay a dust sheet in the bath or on the floor to catch drilling debris. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a bathroom wall, including up to a shaver socket or extractor fan, so run a detector over the area first — but still treat the wall as if something is there until you prove otherwise. If you have any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
MIR-03Work out what your wall is actually made ofTap the wall where you plan to drill: a dull, solid sound usually means brick or block, a hollow sound means plasterboard. Run a stud detector or magnet across the area — a line of regularly spaced screw heads under the surface means a timber or metal stud wall. Drill a small pilot hole in a hidden spot: timber dust means a wooden stud or lath, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and if the drill sails through 10-40mm of empty space before hitting something solid, you're through plasterboard into the void behind a dot-and-dab wall. Bathrooms in older houses sometimes have lath and plaster instead of plasterboard, which feels slightly springy and crumbly when tapped.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
1 each · 3mm drill bit
MIR-04Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the mirror at the height you want and mark through the keyholes or bracket holes with a pencil. Use a spirit level to check the marks are level with each other before you drill anything. Double-check the height clears any splashback tiles or shelving below.
1 each · Pencil
1 roll · Masking tape
MIR-05Drill through the tile without cracking itStick a strip of masking tape over the mark to stop the drill bit skating. Start with a small masonry bit at low speed and no hammer action until you're through the glaze, then switch to the correct bit size and mode for the wall behind. Keep steady, gentle pressure and don't force it.
1 each · Tile drill bit (6mm)
MIR-06Choose the right fixing for your wall typeOn solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole to the depth of the plug, fit a wall plug, and use a 50mm screw. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, drill through the plasterboard and the 10-40mm void behind it into the masonry, and use a longer plug and screw (typically 75-100mm) so it grips the solid wall, not just the plasterboard skin. On a timber stud wall, drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud with no plug needed. On a metal stud wall, never use a plain wall plug or wood screw — they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or toggle-type anchor instead, and if the mirror is heavy or top-hung with a pull-away bracket, get a timber noggin fitted between the studs first. On lath and plaster, aim your fixing into a solid timber lath or the stud behind it, using a longer screw than you'd expect, since the lime plaster itself won't hold weight.
4 each · Wall plugs (assorted, red/brown)
4 each · Long masonry screws (75-100mm)
2 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings
2 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings
MIR-07Fix the mirror to the wallDrive the screws in most of the way, leaving 5-8mm standing out so the mirror's keyholes can slot over them. Lift the mirror onto the screws and let it drop into place. Check it's level and give it a firm, gentle push to confirm it's secure before letting go fully.
1 each · Screwdriver
MIR-08Seal the edges near splash zonesIf any edge of the mirror sits close to the basin or bath splash area, run a thin bead of silicone sealant along that edge to stop water getting behind it. Smooth it with a wet finger or sealant tool and wipe away excess straight away.
1 tube · Bathroom silicone sealant
MIR-09Clean up and check the fixingVacuum up any drilling dust from the dust sheet and floor, and wipe down the mirror and surrounding tiles. Give the mirror a final check for level and firmness after an hour once any sealant has skinned over. Store leftover fixings in a labelled bag in case you need to remove and rehang it later.
1 each · Handheld vacuum or brush

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