Hang a bathroom mirror on a timber stud wall — HomeGraft

Find your wall type, drill the right fixing, then hang and level your bathroom mirror safely.

BM-01Gather your tools and check the mirror's weightLay everything out before you start: drill, drill bits, spirit level, pencil, tape measure, stud detector or a small fridge magnet, screwdriver, and a dust sheet. Check the mirror's weight — it's usually on the box or a sticker on the back. A plain mirror is often 2-6kg; a mirrored cabinet can be 10kg or more once loaded, which changes the fixing you need later.

1 each · Combi drill

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1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Stud/cable detector

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1 each · Dust sheet

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BM-02Mark your fixing pointsHold the mirror at the height you want, or use a paper template cut to its size, and mark the top edge lightly in pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a level guide line, then measure from the mirror's fixing points (D-rings or brackets on the back) to mark exactly where each screw needs to go.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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BM-03Work out what your wall is made ofSolid brick or block feels dense and cold when you knock it, with no give. A stud wall sounds hollow between the uprights and solid on them — run a magnet or detector along the marked line to trace a run of screw heads under the plasterboard. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole at one fixing point: fine pale dust means timber stud, fine grey swarf means metal stud. Dot-and-dab plasterboard feels hollow but with a slightly springy, uneven give, and lath and plaster gives slightly under pressure with faint horizontal lines around every 400mm.

BM-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillScan the whole area with your detector first, but don't trust it completely — detectors miss cables that are deep, run through metal conduit, sit behind metal-backed plasterboard, or lie outside the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

BM-05Drill and fix into solid brick or blockDrill a 6mm hole about 40mm deep at each mark, using a masonry bit and drilling slowly through any tile first to stop it cracking. Push in a Rawlplug wall plug, then drive in the screw, checking it sits tight and doesn't spin freely.

4 each · Rawlplug wall plugs (6mm)

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4 each · Screws (40mm)

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BM-06Drill and fix into plasterboard on timber studsAim each fixing point into the centre of a timber stud, not the edge, so the screw has full purchase. Drill a 3mm pilot hole then drive a 40-50mm wood screw straight in — no plug needed in solid timber. If a fixing point lands between studs, use a plasterboard toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the mirror's weight instead.

4 each · Wood screws (45mm)

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2 each · Plasterboard toggle fixing

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BM-07Drill and fix into plasterboard on metal studsConfirm it's metal from the fine grey swarf in your test hole, then use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor made for steel — never a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. A metal stud on its own won't safely hold a heavy mirror or a cabinet with a door that pulls open. For anything over a few kilos, fit a timber noggin or metal pattress between the studs first, or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any.

4 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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1 each · Timber noggin (if needed)

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BM-08Drill and fix into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab has an air gap of 20-50mm between the plasterboard and the masonry wall behind, so your fixing needs to reach through both. Use a long dot-and-dab-rated fixing (typically 60-75mm), drilling through the board and adhesive dab into the solid wall behind, then fit a wall plug and screw as normal. A short fixing will grip the dab, not the wall, and can pull free later.

4 each · Dot-and-dab long fixings (60-75mm)

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BM-09Drill and fix into lath and plasterOld lath and plaster is brittle, so drill slowly on a low speed to avoid cracking the surrounding plaster. Where you can, aim for a timber lath itself for extra grip. Otherwise use a spring toggle or plaster-specific fixing that spreads the load across the plaster rather than pushing straight through it.

4 each · Spring toggle fixings

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BM-10Hang the mirror and check it's levelLift the mirror onto its fixings or hooks carefully, keeping weight even on both sides. Check it against your level line with the spirit level, adjusting the fixing or the mirror's hanging wire if it's slightly off. Give it a gentle tug to confirm it's secure before letting go.

BM-11Clean up and recheck after a dayWipe away plaster or brick dust with a damp cloth and remove the dust sheet. Come back after 24 hours and check the mirror is still firm, especially if you used a toggle or plasterboard fixing, as these can settle slightly under load.

1 each · Cloth

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