Hang a bathroom mirror on a metal stud wall

Mark, check for pipes and cables, then fix a bathroom mirror securely using the right fixing for your wall type.

BM-01Gather your tools and check the mirror's fixingsLay out a detector, drill, masonry and metal drill bits, spirit level, pencil, tape measure and a dust sheet. Check what fixing points the mirror has on the back — D-rings, a French cleat, or pre-drilled holes — and how far apart they sit. This decides how many fixings you need and how much weight each one takes.

1 each · Wall/stud/pipe detector

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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BM-02Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall. A dull, solid sound is brick or block. A hollow sound means plasterboard — run a detector or magnet along the surface to find the fixing points behind it. Screw heads in a straight vertical line every 400mm or 600mm mean studs (timber or metal); no pattern at all over a hollow wall usually means dot-and-dab on masonry. In an older house with a bouncy, slightly uneven wall, you may have lath and plaster.

BM-03Check timber or metal studs before you commitIf you've found studs, confirm which type before drilling. Drill a small pilot hole at a fixing point — fine pale dust means timber, grey metallic swarf means a metal stud (common in flats, new builds and anything refitted since the 1990s). This changes the fixing you need, so don't skip it even if you're in a hurry.

1 each · 2mm pilot drill bit

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BM-04Mark the mirror position and check it's levelHold the mirror up at the height you want, or measure from the floor to where the top edge should sit. Mark the fixing points lightly in pencil, then use a spirit level to make sure both marks are level with each other, not just level with the floor. Double-check the spacing matches the fixing points on the back of the mirror exactly.

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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BM-05Find pipes and cables, and know how to stop themCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a bathroom, not just in the usual safe zones — a detector can miss deep cables, anything in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed board, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. Run the detector over every mark before drilling, then still drill cautiously and stop the moment you feel resistance change or see anything odd come out of the hole. Before you start, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.

BM-06Drill and fit the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill an 8mm hole to the depth stated on the plug packet, fit a plastic wall plug, and use a screw long enough to go through the mirror bracket and fully into the plug. Plasterboard on timber studs: drill a small pilot hole and drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud — no plug needed. Plasterboard on metal studs: never use a wood screw or plastic plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the mirror's weight. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a fixing long enough to pass through the board, the adhesive dabs and the air gap, and bite into the masonry behind — usually 50-75mm. Lath and plaster: fixings need to grip the timber lath, not just the plaster skin, so use a long screw angled to find a lath, or a suitable heavy-duty plasterboard-style toggle if you can't locate one.

4 each · Plastic wall plugs (masonry)

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4 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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4 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (rated)

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4 each · Wood screws (assorted)

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4 each · Long fixings for dot-and-dab (75mm)

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BM-07Know what a metal stud won't hold on its ownA metal stud fixing is fine for a lightweight bathroom mirror, but it won't hold anything heavy or anything that pulls away from the wall as it's used, such as a very large heavy mirror, a wall-hung basin bracket or a full-motion arm. For those, fit a timber noggin or metal pattress between the studs first, or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any.

1 each · Timber noggin (50x50mm, per stud bay)

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BM-08Hang the mirror and check it's secureLift the mirror onto its fixings and let it settle fully onto the brackets, D-rings or cleat. Gently push and pull at each corner to check nothing moves or creaks. Recheck it's level with your spirit level and adjust the fixings if needed before you let go completely.

BM-09Tidy up and finishWipe away any dust or debris from drilling, especially on tiled surfaces where grit can scratch the glaze. Fold up the dust sheet and vacuum any remaining dust from the floor. Store spare fixings and dispose of any packaging.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner (own tool)

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