FLOORING

Lay laminate on stairs

Lay laminate flooring safely up a straight staircase, fitting nosings, treads, risers and beading in the correct order.

AB-01Clear the stairs and strip old flooringRemove any carpet, rugs, or old flooring from every tread and riser. Prise up carpet gripper rods with a bolster or pincers, working carefully so you don't gouge the treads, then pull out any remaining tacks or staples. Check the treads for old nails or adhesive lumps left behind and remove these so the new laminate lies flat.
2 each · Heavy-duty rubbish bags
1 each · Bolster chisel
AB-02Check and repair the stair structureWalk each tread and listen for creaks or movement, which usually means a joint has worked loose. Drill a small pilot hole and re-screw any loose tread to the stringer underneath with a wood screw. Fill any gouges with wood filler and sand smooth once dry, so nothing shows through the new laminate.
1 pack · Wood screws 40mm (pack of 10)
1 tub · Wood filler
2 sheet · Sandpaper, medium grit
AB-03Measure and plan the layoutMeasure the width of every tread and riser separately, as stairs are rarely perfectly square. Work out how many stair-nosing lengths you need (one per tread edge) plus enough laminate boards for the treads and risers, buying a little extra for cutting waste. Dry-lay a piece on the bottom tread to check the pattern and colour match before cutting anything.
3 m2 · Laminate flooring, matching stair pack
AB-04Fit the stair nosing to the bottom stepBefore drilling or pinning into any tread, remember that pipes for central heating or cables for stair lighting can run under stairs, especially near an understairs cupboard. Use a cable and pipe detector, but still work carefully - find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, and isolate the lighting circuit at the consumer unit first if you have any doubt. Cut the nosing profile to the tread width, mitring the front corner on an open (cut) string. Apply stair-nosing adhesive underneath, press into place, and pin through the pre-drilled holes for extra grip while it cures.
RULES
1 each · Stair nosing profile, 900mm length
1 tube · Stair nosing adhesive
1 pack · Panel pins 20mm
KNOW THE RULES

If the new nosing noticeably increases the tread thickness, it can affect the stair 'going' measurement set out in Building Regulations Part K. Keep the build-up as thin as the kit allows.

AB-05Cut and fit the riserMeasure the riser height and width, then cut a laminate board to fit snugly between the tread below and the nosing above. Run a bead of flooring adhesive along the back and press into place, adding a couple of pins low down where the nosing will hide them. Keep fixings well away from the front edge.
1 tube · Flooring adhesive
AB-06Cut and fit the treadCut the tread board to width, leaving a small gap of around 5mm against the wall string to allow for expansion. Slot the back edge under the nosing lip and press down firmly, gluing or pinning as the kit instructions state. Wipe off any excess adhesive straight away with a damp cloth before it sets.
AB-07Fix quadrant beading along the wall stringOn a closed-string staircase, the expansion gap against the wall needs a strip of quadrant or scotia beading. Work out what's behind the wall first: run a stud detector along it, look for a line of screw heads showing spacing, and listen for a hollow sound between solid points, which suggests plasterboard on studs; an even solid sound all along suggests masonry. Drill a small pilot hole in an unobtrusive spot to check - timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and brick dust means solid masonry or dot-and-dab. Fix into solid brick or block with a wall plug and screw in a 6mm hole 35mm deep. Fix into a timber stud with a wood screw driven into the centre of the stud. Fix into a metal stud with a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a small hollow-wall toggle rated for the beading's weight - never a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, as these strip straight through 0.5mm steel. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and adhesive dabs into the masonry behind, typically 60-75mm. For lath and plaster, locate a solid timber batten or joist behind the laths and fix into that, since the laths alone will crack and won't hold a screw. Before you drill anywhere, remember cables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall - a detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, and isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit if you're at all unsure.
2 each · Quadrant beading, 2.4m length
1 pack · Wall plugs and screws (masonry, pack)
1 pack · Metal-stud hollow-wall fixings (pack)
1 tube · Panel adhesive
AB-08Repeat up the remaining stairsWork step by step up the staircase, repeating the nosing, riser and tread fitting for each stair. Check every board sits flush and level before moving to the next one. Stagger any joins between riser and tread pieces where you can, for a neater and stronger finish.
AB-09Fit the top transition stripAt the top of the stairs, fit a transition or trim strip where the laminate meets the landing floor. Screw or glue it down according to the trim type, keeping it flat and secure. Check there's no lip or gap that could catch a foot.
1 each · Stair-to-landing transition trim
AB-10Clean up and let adhesive cureWipe off any remaining adhesive, vacuum sawdust and offcuts from every tread, and bag up waste laminate and packaging for disposal. Leave the adhesive to cure for the time stated on the tube, usually 24 hours, before anyone uses the stairs normally. Put up a temporary sign or rope across the bottom step as a reminder.

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