Mount an indoor security camera on a timber stud wall

Plan, fix and connect an indoor security camera safely, checking your wall type and cable or pipe locations before drilling.

SC-01Plan where the camera goesPick a spot roughly 2.4-3m up that covers the doorway or room without pointing straight into bright daylight, which can wash out the picture. Check your WiFi signal reaches the spot on your phone before you fix anything. Try to angle it so it covers your own property rather than a neighbour's garden, window or shared path.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

Domestic CCTV is usually exempt from data protection law when it only covers your own home. But ICO guidance says cameras that catch a neighbour's property or a shared area can cause disputes, so angle it to cover only your own space where you can.

SC-02Gather your toolsYou'll need a cable and pipe detector, a stud detector or magnet, a drill with the right bits, a spirit level, a pencil and a tape measure. Have the camera's mounting plate, screws and any plugs to hand, plus a dust sheet to catch drilling debris.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Stud detector or magnet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Cordless drill

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Spirit level

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Dust sheet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

SC-03Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall: solid brick or block sounds dead and solid everywhere. A stud wall sounds hollow between the uprights and firmer where a stud sits. Run a stud detector or magnet along the fixing area — a magnet pulls towards timber-stud screw heads, while a detector flags both timber and metal uprights, though metal frames can give confusing double readings. If unsure, drill a small pilot hole: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud. Dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow like a stud wall but has no regular stud pattern, and lath and plaster feels slightly springy with an uneven surface, usually in houses built before the 1930s.

SC-04Choose the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole 45mm deep, insert a red wall plug, and drive a 40mm screw. Timber stud: drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive a 40mm wood screw directly, no plug needed. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud anchor or a toggle rated for the camera's weight — never a plain wall plug or wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and adhesive dabs into the masonry behind, typically 60-75mm; if you can't reach solid backing, use a hollow-wall toggle instead. Lath and plaster: fix into the timber lath or the stud behind it if you can, or use a plasterboard-style toggle rated for the weight, since lath alone is brittle.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Wood drill bit 2mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Red wall plugs (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Wood screws 40mm (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud anchors (pack of 4)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (pack of 4)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · 60mm masonry fixings for dot-and-dab (pack of 4)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

SC-05Check for cables and pipes, then mark upBefore you drill anywhere, find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. Run the detector over the fixing points, but treat the area as live anyway — detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse them further. If you're in any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into a wall that could hide a pipe. Mark the fixing points with a pencil and use the spirit level to keep the mounting plate straight.

1 each · Pencil

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

SC-06Drill and fix the mounting plateDrill your marked holes using the bit and depth for your wall type from SC-04. Fit the plug or anchor if needed, then screw the mounting plate to the wall. Check it's level and give it a firm tug — it shouldn't move at all.

SC-07Fit the camera and route the cableClip the camera onto its mounting plate. Run the power cable down the wall using cable clips every 300-400mm, keeping it clear of doors, windows and any skirting you'll later need to lift. Plug the camera's power adapter into an existing socket — do not add a new socket or fixed cable yourself.

RULES

1 pack · Cable clips (pack of 20)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

KNOW THE RULES

Adding a new socket or new fixed wiring is notifiable electrical work under Part P of the Building Regulations. Plugging into an existing socket avoids this entirely.

SC-08Power up and connect to the appPlug in the adapter or fit batteries, then follow the camera's app to connect it to your WiFi. Wait for the picture to appear before you move on.

SC-09Test and adjust the angleCheck the live picture on your phone covers the area you planned, with no big blind spots or glare. Loosen the camera's tilt joint, adjust it, then tighten the locking screw firmly.

SC-10Tidy upSweep or vacuum any dust or debris from drilling, fold away the dust sheet, and dispose of packaging. Tidy any loose cable with extra clips so nothing hangs loose or trails across a walkway.

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides