Mount an indoor security camera on a lath and plaster wall — HomeGraft

Mount an indoor security camera securely, with the safety checks and correct fixing for your wall type.

SC-01Plan where the camera goesPick a spot around 2.2–2.4m up, with a clear view of the area you want to cover and away from direct sunlight or a bright window behind it. Check there's a socket nearby or plan a tidy route for the power cable down to one. If the camera can see into a neighbour's garden, window, or a shared space like a communal hallway, UK data protection law can still apply to home CCTV — the ICO publishes plain-English guidance for domestic camera users, worth a quick check before you fix anything.

RULES

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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KNOW THE RULES

Domestic CCTV that captures a neighbour's property or a shared/public space can fall under UK data protection law. See the ICO's guidance for home CCTV users.

SC-02Gather your tools and materialsLay everything out before you start. You'll need the camera and its mounting plate, a drill with wood and masonry bits, a screwdriver, a spirit level, masking tape and a dust sheet. Bring a mix of fixings, because you won't know exactly what's needed until you've checked the wall — wood screws, a masonry plug and screw, and a lath-and-plaster or plasterboard toggle fixing.

1 each · Indoor security camera with mounting plate

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1 each · Drill (cordless)

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1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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1 each · Wood drill bit, 2-3mm

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1 each · Dust sheet

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1 roll · Masking tape

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SC-03Find your stopcock and check the power before drillingBefore you drill anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and make sure it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones' — a detector helps but misses deep cables, metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. If you have any doubt at all about what's behind this bit of wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

SC-04Work out what's behind the wallLath and plaster is thin wooden strips (laths) nailed across timber studs, with gaps between each lath — there's always timber behind it, never metal studs, since this method predates metal stud framing. Run a detector over your marked spot, then tap along the wall: a dull, solid knock usually means a stud or a lath, while a hollow, lighter sound means you're over a gap. If you've patched in plasterboard elsewhere in the room, check that separately: trace a line of screw heads with a magnet or detector to find the studs, and a small pilot hole in scrap or an inconspicuous spot will bring out pale timber dust for a wood stud, or fine grey steel swarf for a metal one.

SC-05Mark and drill your pilot holesStick a strip of masking tape over each marked point — it stops old plaster cracking as the bit bites in. Drill on a low speed with no hammer action, starting with a small 2-3mm pilot hole. Go slowly: even after checking with a detector, stop immediately if the resistance suddenly drops or you feel anything unexpected, as cables and pipes can still sit inside the void behind lath and plaster or a stud cavity.

1 roll · Masking tape

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SC-06Choose the right fixing for your wallOn lath and plaster, if your pilot hole hits a timber stud, drive a 40mm wood screw straight into its centre — this is the strongest option and best for anything with a lens people might knock. If there's no stud where you need it, drill an 8mm hole through a lath (not a gap) and fit a lath-and-plaster or spring toggle fixing rated for at least 5kg; never rely on plaster alone. On plasterboard over timber studs, use a 35-40mm wood screw into the stud centre. On plasterboard over metal studs, never use a wood screw or a plain plastic plug — 0.5mm steel strips instantly. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the fixing. A metal stud alone won't hold anything heavy or anything that pulls on the wall in use; if your camera has a long arm or gets knocked often, fix through to a timber noggin or the masonry behind instead. On solid brick or block, drill 40mm deep with a 6mm masonry bit and use a matching wall plug and 40mm screw. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, measure the air gap behind the board (typically 20-50mm) plus the 12.5mm board thickness, and use a screw or frame fixing long enough to bite into the solid masonry behind — a hollow-wall anchor is only a fallback if you genuinely can't reach it.

4 each · Wood screws, 40mm

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4 each · Lath-and-plaster / plasterboard toggle fixings

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4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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4 each · Wall plugs, 6mm

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4 each · Long frame fixing screws, 75mm

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SC-07Fit the mounting plateHold the mounting plate against the wall, check it's level, and mark the screw holes with a pencil. Drill and fix as worked out in the last step, then screw the plate on — snug and firm, but don't overtighten into old plaster or you risk cracking it.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Screwdriver

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SC-08Attach the camera and run the cableClip or twist the camera onto its mounting plate as per the instructions. Run the power cable down the wall neatly using cable clips every 300mm, keeping it clear of sharp lath edges or nail heads. Plug into the socket you planned earlier — don't overload a multi-socket extension with other high-draw appliances.

6 each · Cable clips

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SC-09Test the camera and adjust the anglePower the camera on and connect it to your phone app and home wifi. Check the live view covers what you planned, and loosen the mounting joint slightly to fine-tune the angle if needed. Retighten once you're happy with the view.

SC-10Tidy upVacuum up any plaster or wood dust from the floor and skirting before it gets trodden in. Wipe down the wall around the fixing and dispose of any packaging. Keep spare fixings and screws in a labelled bag in case you need to remove and refit the camera later.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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