HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Mount speaker brackets on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit speaker brackets safely on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall, finding the right wall type and fixing before you drill.

SP-01Plan the job and check the loadCheck the manufacturer's weight rating for the bracket and speaker together. Decide where the speakers will sit, allowing for cable runs, viewing height and any furniture in the way. Check the wall for hidden sockets, radiator pipes or window reveals that might limit your chosen spot.
1 pair · Speaker wall brackets (pair)
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
SP-02Find your stopcock and consumer unit before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, so a detector alone is not proof there is nothing there. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what is behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
SP-03Work out what your wall is actually made ofSweep the area with a stud detector or magnet, looking for a regular line of screw heads which points to a timber or metal stud wall. Tap along the wall: solid brick or block sounds dull and consistent, dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow with occasional solid thuds where the adhesive dabs sit, and stud walls sound hollow between studs and firmer on them. Drill a small 3mm test hole in an inconspicuous spot and check what comes out: brick dust means solid masonry, timber dust means a wood stud or noggin, and fine grey swarf means a metal stud.
1 each · Stud detector
1 each · 3mm masonry/HSS drill bit
SP-04Choose the right fixing for your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill to 40-50mm depth with a 6-8mm masonry bit and fit a matching plastic wall plug and screw. Plasterboard on timber studs: drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud, or use a rated plasterboard toggle if the fixing point falls between studs. Plasterboard on metal studs: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor, never a wood screw or plain plastic plug, which strip straight through 0.5mm steel; a metal stud alone will not hold a bracket that pulls hard on the wall, so fit a timber noggin between studs or fix through to masonry behind if needed. Dot-and-dab plasterboard, which is this job: use a long fixing, typically a 60-75mm hollow-wall toggle or screw-and-plug set, long enough to pass through the plasterboard and air gap and grip the solid masonry behind. Lath and plaster: find a timber joist or batten behind the laths with your detector and fix into that, since the lime plaster alone will crumble.
1 pack · Plastic wall plugs (pack of 10)
1 pack · Wood screws, mixed sizes (pack)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings (pack of 10)
1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings (pack of 4)
1 pack · Long hollow-wall toggle fixings, 60-75mm (pack of 4)
SP-05Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the bracket against the wall and use a spirit level to get it dead level. Mark through the fixing holes with a pencil onto the wall. Double-check the marks against the bracket before you drill anything.
1 each · Spirit level
SP-06Drill through the dot-and-dab and into the masonryDrill through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs at each marked point, using the bit size stated on your chosen fixing's packet. Keep drilling steadily through the air gap behind the dabs until you reach the solid masonry, then continue to the depth stated for your fixing, typically 40-50mm into the brick or block. Push the long fixing fully home so it seats against the masonry, not just the plasterboard.
1 each · 6-8mm masonry drill bit
SP-07Mount the bracket and check it holdsScrew the bracket to the wall through the fitted fixings, tightening evenly so it does not tip out of level. Check it with the spirit level again once fixed. Give the bracket a firm hand test, pulling in the direction the speaker will pull, before you trust it with the speaker.
SP-08Fit the speaker and route the cableClip or screw the speaker onto the mounted bracket as per its instructions. Run the cable neatly along the skirting or up to the source, using cable clips to keep it flat against the wall. Tidy any slack so nothing hangs loose or trips anyone.
1 pack · Cable clips (pack)
SP-09Clear up and check the finished jobVacuum plaster and brick dust from the floor and skirting, and wipe down the wall. Turn the water and electrics back on if you isolated them. Do a final check that both brackets are level and the speakers are secure before you finish.
1 each · Dust sheet

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