BW-04Drill and fix the bracketsBefore you drill any of the marked points, run your detector over every one, then treat the wall as live anyway — detectors miss deep cables, cables in conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe; if you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off before cutting into anything that could carry water. On dot-and-dab, drill through the plasterboard and the air gap into the solid masonry behind, using a long fixing (60-75mm) so it grips the masonry, not just the board. On the solid masonry reveals, drill a 6mm hole to about 40mm depth and use a wall plug with a matching screw. Into a timber stud, use a 4x40mm wood screw driven into the centre of the timber. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor — never a plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. If any part of the bay is lath and plaster, find the timber laths first, or fit a spring toggle rated for the track's weight if you land between laths, since a plain screw can crack the old plaster.