Put up a bay window curtain track on a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a curved curtain track across a bay window, checking wall type first and using the right fixing at every point.

CT-01Plan the track and gather your toolsMeasure the width of each pane of the bay and the angles at the corners, then buy a flexible bay curtain track long enough to bend around them. Buy enough brackets for every 400-500mm along the track plus one at each corner, as different fixings may be needed along the run. Get a detector, spirit level, pencil, drill, pilot bit, and a mix of fixings to suit whatever the wall and ceiling turn out to be.

1 each · Flexible bay curtain track kit

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8 each · Track support brackets

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level

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CT-02Work out what the wall and ceiling are made ofRun a detector along the fixing line, then check for a magnet pulling towards screw heads under paint, which usually means metal studs behind plasterboard. Knock along the wall — a solid dull thud is brick or block, a hollow drum sound with regular studs every 400-600mm is a timber or metal stud wall, and an uneven bouncy sound can mean lath and plaster. Drill a small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot: pale timber dust means a wood stud or batten, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud, and a short drill travel before hitting solid masonry usually means dot-and-dab.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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CT-03Check for cables and pipes, and know your shut-offs before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, including up to a bay window for sockets or radiator pipework, so sweep the whole fixing line with your detector first. Even with a clear reading, still expect something to be there and drill carefully, since detectors miss deep cables, cables in conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse cheap detectors further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, switch off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

CT-04Mark the bracket positions and check levelHold the track along the top of the bay and mark bracket positions every 400-500mm, with one close to each corner where the track bends. Use a spirit level to keep the line straight along each flat section, then step back and check the marks look even by eye, since bay windows are rarely perfectly square.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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CT-05Fix brackets into solid brick or blockDrill an 7mm hole at each mark to a depth of 40-45mm, using a masonry bit and stopping if you feel or hear a cable or pipe. Push in a red wall plug, then drive a 40mm screw through the bracket into the plug until it is firm but not overtightened.

8 each · Red wall plugs (7mm)

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8 each · 40mm screws

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1 each · 7mm masonry drill bit

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CT-06Fix brackets into a timber stud wallFind the centre of each stud with your detector and a pilot hole, then drive a 40mm wood screw straight into the centre of the timber. If a bracket falls between studs, use a hollow-wall anchor rated for the curtain weight rather than a screw into bare plasterboard.

6 each · 40mm wood screws

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2 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings

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CT-07Fix brackets into a metal stud wallNever use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw into a metal stud, as it strips straight through the 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load instead. A curtain track pulls on its brackets every time you open and close the curtains, so a metal stud alone will not hold it reliably — fit a timber noggin between the studs behind each bracket, or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any.

6 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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3 each · Timber noggin (50x25mm, cut to length)

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CT-08Fix brackets through dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab has a gap of 20-40mm between the plasterboard and the masonry wall behind it, so a standard wall plug will not reach solid material. Use a long fixing, at least 75mm, that passes through the plasterboard and dabs to bite into the masonry, or use a suitable heavy-duty hollow-wall anchor if you cannot reach a solid dab.

8 each · 75mm masonry screws for dot-and-dab

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CT-09Fix brackets into lath and plasterLath and plaster is brittle and can crack if you drill straight into it, so mark your hole and drill slowly at low speed to avoid shattering the plaster around it. Locate the timber laths or the studs behind and screw into solid timber where possible, or use a plasterboard-style toggle fixing rated for the weight if you can only reach the lath itself, checking the fixing feels genuinely secure before hanging the track.

4 each · Toggle fixings for lath and plaster

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CT-10Fit the track and shape it around the bayClip or screw the track sections into the fixed brackets, working along each flat section before tackling the corners. Gently flex the track by hand around each corner bracket to follow the angle of the bay, checking it moves smoothly and is not kinked.

CT-11Hang the curtains and test the glideClip the curtain gliders or hooks onto the track and hang the curtains, then run them fully open and closed a few times, including around both corners. Check every bracket stays tight as the curtains pass over it, and firm up any that feel loose.

CT-12Tidy upVacuum up plaster dust, wood dust, or metal swarf from the floor and windowsill. Wipe down the wall and check no fixings or screws have been left lying around the bay seating area.

1 each · Dust sheet

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