Put up a corner shelf on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Fit a corner shelf safely by checking your wall type, finding solid fixing points, and levelling brackets before you drill.

CS-01Prepare the area and check safety basicsClear the corner and lay a dust sheet on the floor to catch debris. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere, so sweep a cable and pipe detector over every line you plan to drill, but still treat the result as a guide rather than a guarantee, since detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board. If you have any real doubt, switch off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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CS-02Work out what each wall in the corner is made ofTap the wall along both sides of the corner. A sharp hollow sound all over means plasterboard, either on a stud frame or dot-and-dab over masonry. A dull solid knock means brick or block. Drill a 3mm test hole in an unseen spot: dot-and-dab gives board, then a short gap of 10-40mm, then solid masonry; a timber stud gives board then solid timber with wood dust on the bit; a metal stud gives board then an empty cavity with fine grey metal swarf; lath and plaster (common pre-1930s) gives board-like plaster over criss-crossed timber laths with a hollow gap behind. Trace timber studs with a magnet or stud detector following a line of screw heads if you need to confirm.

1 each · 3mm HSS drill bit

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CS-03Mark and level the shelf positionHold the corner shelf or bracket in place at the height you want and mark the top edge in pencil on both walls. Use a spirit level to draw a level line across the corner, then mark each fixing hole through the bracket itself. Double-check the two walls line up at the same height before you commit to drilling.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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CS-04Drill and fit the right fixing for each wall typeFor solid brick or block, drill with a 6mm masonry bit to around 40mm deep, insert a wall plug (Rawlplug) and drive a 40mm screw in. For plasterboard on a timber stud, drill a 4mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive a 50mm wood screw straight in. For plasterboard on a metal stud, never use a plain plastic plug or a wood screw, as it strips straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor instead, and remember a metal stud alone will not hold anything heavy. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board, cross the dab cavity, and grip in the masonry behind, typically a 60-75mm fixing with a plug sized to the hole depth you found in step CS-02. For lath and plaster, it is more reliable to locate the timber lath or a stud behind it and screw into that with a fine self-tapping screw; drill gently, as old plaster cracks easily.

8 each · Wall plugs (Rawlplug, mixed sizes)

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4 each · Masonry screws 40mm

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4 each · Wood screws 50mm

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4 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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4 each · Long dot-and-dab fixing 60-75mm (e.g. Fischer Duopower)

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CS-05Fit the brackets and shelfScrew the brackets to the wall through the marked holes, checking each one is tight before moving to the next. Rest the corner shelf on the brackets and check it sits level with your spirit level. Secure the shelf to the brackets if the kit includes fixing screws for the top.

1 each · Corner shelf and bracket kit

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4 each · Small screws for shelf-to-bracket fixing

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CS-06Load-test, check level, and tidy upPress down firmly on the shelf and check nothing moves or creaks before adding weight. Re-check the spirit level once the shelf is loaded with a few light items. Fill any stray or test holes with a dab of filler, let it dry, and vacuum up dust from the dust sheet.

1 each · Filler (small tube)

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