Put up a corner shelf on a metal stud wall

Fit a neat corner shelf securely, working out your wall type first and choosing the right fixing for it.

CS-01Gather your tools and shelf kitGet everything together before you start: the corner shelf unit, a drill, screwdriver, pencil, tape measure and spirit level. Check what fixings came in the box — flat-pack shelf kits often include basic plastic plugs that are no good for anything but solid brick or block. You may need to buy proper fixings once you know what your wall is made of.

1 each · Corner shelf unit

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level, 600mm

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CS-02Clear the corner and protect the floorMove furniture away from the corner so you've got room to work. Lay a dust sheet below the fixing area to catch drilling dust and plasterboard debris. Wipe the corner walls so you can see pencil marks clearly.

1 each · Dust sheet

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CS-03Find your stopcock and consumer unit before you drill anythingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones' — a detector helps but doesn't catch everything, especially deep cables, metal conduit, or anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind this corner, know where your consumer unit is too, so you can isolate the circuit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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CS-04Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall — a dull thud usually means solid brick or block, a hollow sound means plasterboard on a stud frame. Run a stud detector or magnet across the surface: if it catches on a regular line of screw heads roughly 300-600mm apart, you've found a stud. Drill a small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot — fine white dust with a soft feel means plasterboard or lath and plaster, timber dust means a wood stud, and metal filings (swarf) mean a metal stud. Dot-and-dab feels hollow near the middle of the wall but solid every 300-600mm where the adhesive dabs are, and lath and plaster often sounds slightly springy and uneven when tapped.

1 each · 3mm pilot drill bit

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CS-05Mark and level your fixing pointsHold the shelf brackets in the corner at your chosen height and mark the fixing holes in pencil. Use the spirit level to check the marks are level on both walls before you commit to drilling — a corner shelf shows up unevenly fast. Double-check your marks land on a stud centre if you're fixing into timber or metal studs.

CS-06Drill your fixing holesDrill slowly and stop the moment you feel resistance change, dust colour change, or hit something hard and metallic that isn't a stud — that could be a pipe or cable, so stop immediately. For a metal stud, drill straight through the plasterboard face into the stud with a small pilot hole. For a timber stud, drill a pilot hole into the centre of the stud. For solid masonry, use a hammer drill with a masonry bit sized to your wall plug. For dot-and-dab, you'll need a longer bit to reach through the plasterboard and the adhesive dabs into the solid masonry behind — usually 40-60mm of dab and skim before the brick. For lath and plaster, drill without hammer action to avoid cracking the plaster, and go carefully — you may need to shift your mark slightly to land between the laths rather than on one.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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1 each · Long masonry drill bit, 90mm

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CS-07Fit the right fixings for your wallInto a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a metal toggle — never a plain wall plug or wood screw, both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Into a timber stud, drive a wood screw into the centre of the stud. Into solid brick or block, use a wall plug and screw sized to your drill bit. Into dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough to bite into the masonry behind, not just the plasterboard. Into lath and plaster, use a spring toggle or hollow-wall anchor positioned to miss the laths. Remember a metal stud fixing only holds light loads — a small corner shelf is fine, but if you're adding anything heavier later, you'll need a timber noggin or pattress fitted between the studs instead.

4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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4 each · Wood screws, 4mm x 40mm

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4 each · Wall plugs, red

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4 each · Screws, 4mm x 50mm

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4 each · Long frame fixings, 75mm

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4 each · Spring toggle fixings

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CS-08Attach the brackets and shelfScrew the brackets to the wall through your fixings, tightening evenly so you don't twist them out of line. Rest the shelf on the brackets and check it sits square in the corner before securing it with the screws provided in the kit.

CS-09Check level and test the fixingRun the spirit level along the shelf edge and adjust if needed while the fixings are still slightly loose. Once level, tighten everything fully. Press down gently on the shelf to check it feels solid, then add a light item first rather than loading it straight away.

CS-10Tidy upFold up the dust sheet and vacuum any dust or debris from the floor and skirting. Put away tools and store any leftover fixings somewhere you'll find them again.

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