Put up a curtain pole on a timber stud wall

Fit a curtain pole above your window safely and securely, checking what's behind the wall before you drill.

CP-01Plan the pole positionDecide how high above the window frame and how far past each side you want the pole – typically 100–150mm above the frame and 150–200mm past each side, so curtains clear the glass when open. Mark the centre point of the window using your centre-finding method, then use a spirit level to draw a level line where the pole will sit. Hold the pole and brackets against the wall to check the finished look before you mark anything permanent.

1 each · Curtain pole kit with brackets and screws

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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CP-02Check for cables and pipes, and know your stopcockCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones'. Run a detector over the whole marked line, but still treat every hole as a risk – detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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CP-03Confirm you actually have timber studsTap along the wall – a dull thud means a stud, a hollow sound means plasterboard between studs. Use your detector or a magnet to find the line of screw or nail heads that marks the stud, then drill a small 2–3mm pilot hole to check: pale wood dust means timber, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud instead. This guide covers timber studs – if you find metal, stop and use metal-stud fixings, not wood screws, as they'll strip straight through.

1 each · Stud detector or magnet

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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CP-04Mark the bracket positionsTimber studs are normally spaced 400mm or 600mm apart, so your bracket positions may not line up exactly with a stud. Aim to get at least one bracket, ideally both, fixed into the centre of a stud rather than just into the plasterboard skin. If a bracket must sit between studs, plan to use a plasterboard toggle fixing there instead, rated for the pole and curtain weight.

CP-05Drill and fix the bracketsFor a bracket over a stud, drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the timber and fix with a 40–50mm wood screw. For a bracket that falls between studs, drill the hole size stated on the toggle packaging and fit a hollow-wall toggle rated for at least the combined weight of the pole and curtains. If you hit solid material above the window opening, this is likely the concrete or steel lintel – switch to a masonry drill bit and the correct plug and screw for that material, following your lintel-fixing method.

4 each · Wood screws 40-50mm

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2 each · Plasterboard toggle fixings

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2 each · Masonry plugs and screws (for lintel, if needed)

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1 each · Power drill

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1 each · Screwdriver

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CP-06Fit the pole and check it's levelRest the pole in the brackets and tighten any securing screws or clips underneath. Place a spirit level along the top of the pole and adjust if needed – small gaps can usually be shimmed at the bracket, but if it's badly out, re-check your marks. Give the pole a firm push down and forward to make sure both brackets hold before you trust it with curtains.

1 each · Spirit level

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CP-07Hang the curtains and test the fixingsThread the curtains onto the pole and hang it on the brackets. Open and close the curtains a few times, giving the pole a gentle downward tug at each end, to check nothing is working loose. If a bracket flexes or the wall creaks, take it down and refix before using it properly.

CP-08Tidy upVacuum up any dust or debris from drilling, especially on the windowsill and floor below. Wipe down the wall if there's any dust residue. Bin the packaging and keep any spare screws or toggles in case a fixing ever needs replacing.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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1 each · Cloth

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