Put up a curtain pole on a lath and plaster wall

Mount a curtain pole above your window securely, working safely and matching the fixing to your wall.

CP-01Gather your tools and check the kitGet your curtain pole kit, a cable/pipe/stud detector, spirit level, tape measure, pencil, drill, dust sheet and a stable step stool or small ladder. Check the pole is long enough to sit 100-150mm beyond each side of the window frame so curtains clear the glass when open. Look at the screws supplied with the kit - they're often too short or the wrong type for your wall, so you may need to buy stronger fixings separately.

1 each · Curtain pole kit (pole, brackets, rings, finials)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Cable, pipe and stud detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Dust sheet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CP-02Measure and mark the bracket positionsFind the centre of the window and mark it with a pencil. Measure out equally to each side so the pole overhangs the frame by 100-150mm on both ends. Mark the bracket height, usually 100-150mm above the top of the frame or architrave, then use your spirit level to draw a level line joining both marks. Double check both bracket marks are the same height before you drill anything.

CP-03Work out what's behind the wall at each markRun your detector over each bracket mark, then check for a line of old screw or nail heads under the paint, which usually marks a stud or batten. Tap along the wall: a dull, solid knock means masonry, timber or a batten behind; a hollow, drum-like sound means only plaster and lath with nothing solid right there. On lath and plaster walls specifically, listen for a change from hollow to a firmer, slightly higher-pitched knock - that firmer spot is where a timber lath support or stud usually sits, and it's the best place to fix into.

CP-04Do your safety checks before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and a detector can miss deep cables, metal conduit or anything behind metal-backed board. Treat every mark as if something is there until you've drilled a small test hole and checked what comes out. Before you drill, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit first.

CP-05Choose the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole to 50mm depth, fit a matching Rawlplug, then drive a 50-60mm wood screw. Timber stud wall: drive a 50mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud, no plug needed. Metal stud wall: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow anchor rated for the pole's weight - never a plain wall plug or ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel; if the curtains are heavy or the pole will get pulled, fit a timber noggin between the studs first. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a fixing long enough to pass through the 10-20mm adhesive void and grip the solid masonry behind, typically a 75-90mm masonry screw and plug. Lath and plaster: aim your bracket screw straight into the timber stud or lath support you found in step 3, drilling a 3mm pilot hole through the plaster and lath before driving a 60-75mm wood screw; if nothing solid sits behind your mark, shift the bracket a few millimetres to line up with timber, or use a hollow-wall spring toggle rated for lath and plaster and drill slowly to avoid cracking the old plaster.

1 pack · Rawlplugs (assorted, red/brown)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Wood screws 50-75mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Masonry screws 75-90mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Spring toggle fixings (lath/plasterboard rated)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CP-06Drill and fit the bracketsDrill each pilot hole to the size and depth for the fixing you chose in step 5, keeping the drill level and going slowly on old lath and plaster so you don't crack the surface. Fit the plug or anchor, then screw the bracket firmly into place. Check each bracket is level with the other before fully tightening, and give each one a firm pull test once fixed.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Wood/general purpose drill bit 3mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CP-07Fit the pole, rings and finialsThread the curtain rings onto the pole if they're not already on. Rest the pole into the bracket cradles and close or screw the bracket clips shut to lock it in place. Screw or push the finials onto each end of the pole to stop the rings sliding off.

CP-08Hang the curtains and test the fittingHang your curtains on the rings and run the pole gently along its length to check it moves smoothly. Pull down gently on each bracket to check it's solid, with no movement or crumbling plaster around the fixing.

CP-09Tidy upRemove the dust sheet and vacuum up plaster or brick dust, especially around lath and plaster drilling where old plaster can flake. Fill any small chips or cracks around the fixings with a dab of filler once the dust has settled, and let it dry before touching up with paint if needed. Bag up packaging and offcuts for disposal.

1 each · Multi-purpose filler (small tube)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Filling knife

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides