Put up a curtain track on a lath and plaster wall

Mark, drill and fix curtain track brackets securely and level, choosing the right fixing for whatever is behind your wall.

CT-01Gather your tools and check the kitUnpack the curtain track and count the brackets against the track length — most kits need brackets every 400-600mm, plus one near each end. Check you have enough screws and that the track fits your window width with any overlap you want at the sides. Lay a dust sheet under the work area before you start.

1 each · Curtain track kit (track, brackets, gliders, end stops)

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1 each · Cordless drill/driver

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1 each · Dust sheet

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CT-02Mark the fixing line and bracket positionsDecide your fixing height — usually 150-200mm above the window recess, or tight under the ceiling if you want the curtains to run floor to ceiling. Hold the track up, level it with a spirit level, and mark a light pencil line. Mark each bracket position on that line: end brackets 50-100mm from the track ends, the rest spaced 400-600mm apart.

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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CT-03Work out what's behind each fixing pointLath and plaster feels slightly springy when you tap it, unlike solid brick which feels dead and hard. Run a detector along your marked line to find timber laths or studs — a line of regular clicks roughly every 400mm usually means studs behind. If the wall could be a later stud partition rather than true lath and plaster, check whether it's timber or metal: a magnet sticks to screw heads over metal studs, and a small 3mm test hole brings out pale timber dust for wood or fine grey swarf for 0.5mm steel. Metal stud partitions are common in flats, new builds, and any wall refitted since the 1990s.

1 each · Stud, pipe and cable detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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CT-04Safety check before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the marked safe zones, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, boxed in metal conduit, or hidden behind metal-backed plasterboard. Run the detector over every mark, then still treat each hole as if something could be there. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you ever hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

CT-05Fix brackets into lath and plasterDrill a 3mm pilot hole through the plaster and lath at each mark and feel for solid resistance — that's the stud behind. If you hit solid timber, drill through to a depth of about 35mm and drive a 60mm wood screw through the bracket into the stud, sinking the screw head flush. If there's no stud within 30mm either side of a mark, use a spring toggle rated for at least the weight of your curtains for that bracket only — don't rely on toggles at the track ends, where the pull is greatest; shift the bracket slightly to land on timber instead.

6 each · Wood screws 60mm No.8

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2 each · Spring toggle fixings

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CT-06Fix brackets into solid brick or blockUsing a hammer drill and a 6mm masonry bit, drill straight through the plaster into the brick or block to a depth of 40mm. Blow or vacuum the dust out of the hole, push in a 6mm wall plug, and drive a 40mm No.8 screw through the bracket into the plug until it's tight.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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6 each · Wall plugs 6mm

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6 each · Wood screws 40mm No.8

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CT-07Fix brackets into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab boards are stuck to the masonry with adhesive dabs, leaving a gap of 20-50mm behind the board. Use a long fixing — 75-90mm — that passes through the plasterboard, crosses that gap, and bites into the solid masonry behind, not just into the board or the dab. Drill through in one go at reduced speed so you don't snap the fixing partway, then set the plug and screw as you would for solid masonry.

6 each · Long masonry screws/fixings 75-90mm

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CT-08Fix brackets into plasterboard on timber studsConfirm the stud centre with your detector or by tapping for the solid sound, then drill a 3mm pilot hole. Drive a 45mm wood screw straight through the bracket into the centre of the stud. If a bracket falls between studs, move it a few millimetres rather than fixing into board alone.

6 each · Wood screws 45mm No.8

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CT-09Fix brackets into plasterboard on metal studsNever use a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load. A single metal stud fixing won't hold heavy curtains that pull as they're drawn, so aim to land at least two brackets on studs along the track rather than relying on toggles alone; if every bracket falls between studs, fit a timber packer between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any.

6 each · Self-drilling metal stud screws

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2 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors

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CT-10Fit the track and glidersSlide the gliders onto the track before clipping it into the brackets — it's much harder once the track is up. Clip or screw the track into each fixed bracket, then run a level along the top of the track to check it's still straight, adjusting a bracket if needed.

12 each · Curtain gliders

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CT-11Hang the curtains and testAttach the curtain hooks to the gliders and run the curtains open and closed a few times to check the track holds firm and nothing sags. Check each bracket by hand for movement, especially any fixed with a toggle rather than into solid timber or masonry.

CT-12Tidy upVacuum up plaster or brick dust from the sill and floor, and wipe down the wall around each fixing. Fold away the dust sheet and put spare screws and fixings back in the kit box for future adjustments.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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