Put up a curtain track on a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a curtain track securely above your window, working out what's behind the wall before you drill.

CT-01Plan the track position and lengthDecide how high and wide the track needs to be — usually 50-100mm above the window frame and 150-200mm wider on each side so curtains clear the glass. Cut or trim the track to length if needed, following the pack instructions. Work out bracket spacing: most tracks need a bracket every 400-600mm, plus one near each end.

1 each · Curtain track kit with brackets

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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CT-02Work out what the wall is made ofTap the wall along your marked line. Solid brick or block sounds dull and hard everywhere. A stud wall sounds hollow between the studs and firmer where a stud is behind. Run a stud detector or a strong magnet along the line — a magnet will catch on the screw heads that fix plasterboard to metal studs, and on nail heads on timber studs, so you can trace the stud centre.

1 each · Stud detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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CT-03Confirm timber or metal stud with a test holeIf you find a stud, drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole at the centre point. Fine pale dust means timber. Fine grey metallic swarf, or a gritty resistance and a burning smell, means a metal stud — common in flats, new builds, and anything refitted since the 1990s. This matters because the fixing you need is completely different for each.

1 each · Cordless drill

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1 each · 2-3mm drill bit

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CT-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones' — a detector helps but misses deep cables, cables in metal conduit, cables behind metal-backed plasterboard, and it can be confused further by a metal stud frame. Always assume something is there until you have proved otherwise. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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CT-05Mark and level the bracket positionsHold the track (or a paper template) against the wall at the height you chose and mark each bracket hole through it with a pencil. Check the line is level with a spirit level before you commit to any marks — a track fixed even slightly out of level will show badly once curtains hang. Double-check spacing matches your plan from step 1.

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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CT-06Choose the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: 6mm masonry bit, drill 40mm deep, fit a red/brown wall plug and a No.8 x 50mm screw. Timber stud: 4mm pilot hole into the stud centre, then a No.8 x 40mm wood screw. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the bracket load — never a plastic plug and never an ordinary wood screw, both will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and the adhesive dabs into the masonry behind, typically 60-75mm total, or a plasterboard toggle rated for the weight if you can only fix into the board itself. Lath and plaster: aim for the timber stud or joist behind the laths, not just the crumbly plaster — if no stud lines up, use a long toggle fixing that spans the gap.

8 each · Wall plugs (red/brown, 6mm)

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8 each · Wood screws No.8 x 40-50mm

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8 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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8 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (rated for load)

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CT-07A metal stud alone won't hold heavy curtainsA single metal stud fixing is fine for a light-to-medium track and curtains. If you're hanging heavy, lined, or floor-length curtains, or a very long track, a metal stud fixing on its own may pull loose over time. In that case, fit a timber noggin between the studs first, or run longer fixings through to the masonry behind if it's a dot-and-dab wall.

1 each · Timber noggin (50x50mm, cut to length)

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CT-08Drill and fit the fixingsDrill each marked hole to the depth and size for your wall type from step 6, going slowly and checking for resistance changes that might mean a hidden cable or pipe. Fit the plug, toggle, or self-drilling fixing as appropriate, then screw each bracket to the wall by hand at first to check it seats squarely before tightening fully.

1 each · Masonry drill bit (6mm)

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1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver bit

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CT-09Fit the track and test itClip or screw the track onto the fitted brackets according to the pack instructions. Once it's on, pull down firmly on each bracket point to check nothing flexes or creaks. If any fixing feels loose, remove it and refit with a bigger toggle or a longer fixing rather than leaving it and hoping.

CT-10Hang the curtains and tidy upClip the curtain hooks or rings onto the track and run the curtains along it to check they glide smoothly. Vacuum up any dust, and if you drilled into a metal stud, sweep up the metal swarf carefully as it's sharp. Put drill bits and leftover fixings back in your toolbox for next time.

1 each · Dust sheet

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