Put up a curtain track on a concrete ceiling

Fit a curtain track safely to a concrete ceiling, checking what's actually up there before you drill.

CT-01Measure up and plan the fixing pointsMeasure the window width and mark where the track should start and end — usually 150-200mm past each side of the frame so curtains block light properly. Decide the drop needed above the window and mark a level line for the track using your spirit level. Check the curtain track kit's instructions for bracket spacing, usually every 400-600mm.

1 each · Curtain track kit (with brackets, gliders, end stops)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Pencil

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CT-02Work out what the ceiling actually isDon't assume 'concrete ceiling' means solid concrete right where you're drilling — many flats have a dry-lined or battened ceiling fixed under the real concrete soffit. Drill a small pilot hole at one marked point: fine grey dust and a hard, solid feel means solid concrete; hollow sound plus brown timber dust means timber joists or battens; fine steel swarf means metal furring channels; a soft, bouncy feel with old lime plaster and thin wood strips means lath and plaster. Note which one you've found, because the fixing changes below.

CT-03Check for pipes and cables, and know how to shut things offCables and pipes can run almost anywhere above a ceiling, including lighting circuits and pipework serving a flat above. Use a detector, but still assume something's there and drill carefully — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board, and a metal furring channel confuses cheap detectors further. Before drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely. If you have any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

CT-04Solid concrete ceiling: drill and fix the bracketsDrill each marked point with an SDS drill and masonry bit sized to your plug (typically 6mm bit for a 6mm plug), to a depth a few mm deeper than the plug. Blow or vacuum out the dust, push in the plug, then screw the bracket in place. Tighten firmly but stop as soon as it's solid — overtightening can crack the concrete around the hole.

1 each · SDS masonry drill bit (6mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Concrete/masonry wall plugs (6mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · No.8 screws (40mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CT-05Timber joist or batten ceiling: fix into the timberIf your pilot hole brought out timber dust, find the centre of the joist or batten with your detector or by tracking screw heads, then drill a pilot hole 2-3mm smaller than your screw. Fix the bracket with a wood screw driven straight into the centre of the timber. Never fix only into the plasterboard between joists — the pulling action of curtains will work the fixing loose.

1 pack · Wood screws (40mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CT-06Metal furring channel ceiling: use the right metal-stud fixingIf the pilot hole gave fine steel swarf, you have metal ceiling channels, usually 0.5mm steel. Never use a plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw — it strips straight through. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a toggle-type hollow fixing rated for the load. A curtain track gets pulled sideways every time it's drawn, so for a full-width track it's safer to fix a short timber batten across two channels first, or use fixings long enough to reach the solid concrete soffit above.

1 pack · Metal-stud toggle fixings

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Timber batten (50x25mm, cut to length)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CT-07Dry-lined ceiling: reach through to the concrete behindIf there's a gap between the plasterboard and the true concrete soffit, a standard-length fixing won't bite into anything solid. Use a longer masonry screw or plug — typically 60-75mm — that passes through the plasterboard and gap and still gets a good depth into the concrete. Check the gap first by probing the pilot hole with a thin drill bit before choosing your fixing length.

1 pack · Long masonry fixing screws (75mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CT-08Lath and plaster ceiling: fix into the joist, not the lathOld lime-plaster ceilings on thin timber laths are common in properties built before the 1950s and won't hold a screw on their own — the plaster crumbles. Locate the joist above the laths with your detector or by tapping for a solid sound, then use a longer wood screw so it passes through the lath and plaster and still bites well into solid joist timber.

1 pack · Wood screws (50mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CT-09Check the whole line is level before final tighteningOnce all brackets are loosely fixed, hold your spirit level across the full run and check it's straight, not just each bracket individually. Adjust any bracket that's out before fully tightening every screw. A track that's slightly off level shows immediately once curtains are hung.

CT-10Fit the track, gliders and end stopsThread the gliders onto the track before clipping it into the brackets, if your kit needs this. Click or slide the track into the fixed brackets following the kit's instructions. Fit the end stops so the gliders and curtains can't run off the ends.

CT-11Hang the curtains and test the glideAttach the curtain hooks or rings to the gliders and hang the curtains. Draw them fully open and closed a few times to check the glide is smooth with no dragging or sagging in the middle. If the track sags between brackets, add an extra bracket at that point.

CT-12Tidy upVacuum up drilling dust from the floor and windowsill and wipe down the wall. Put fixings, screws and offcuts away, and step back to check the finished line from across the room in normal daylight.

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides