HANGING & WALL MOUNTING

Put up a pegboard on a lath and plaster wall

Fix a pegboard panel securely to a lath and plaster wall without cracking the old plaster or missing hidden pipes and cables.

AB-01Plan the job and gather your toolsMeasure your pegboard panel and decide where it will go, keeping it clear of door swings and light switches. Mark the top edge height on the wall with a pencil, using a spirit level to keep the line true. Clear the area, lay a dust sheet, and check the panel size so you know how many fixing points you will need (corners plus mid-points for anything over 600mm wide).
1 each · Pegboard panel
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Tape measure
AB-02Work out what's behind the lath and plasterLath and plaster is a plaster finish over thin timber strips, nailed to either timber studs (a stud partition wall) or timber battens fixed to solid brick or block. Use a magnet or stud detector to trace a vertical line of old nail or screw heads, usually spaced 400-600mm apart, and tap the wall to compare a dull, regular thud (battens over solid wall) with a deeper hollow sound (stud partition). Drill a small 3mm test hole in an unobtrusive spot: gritty red-brown dust means solid masonry behind, pale curled shavings mean timber.
1 each · Stud detector or strong magnet
1 each · 3mm drill bit
1 each · Drill
1 each · Torch
AB-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillOld lath and plaster walls often have wiring that doesn't follow modern safe zones, so a detector helps but won't catch everything, especially deep or older cabling. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut off water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind your marked fixing points, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and don't proceed until you're confident it's clear.
1 each · Safety glasses
1 pair · Work gloves
AB-04Mark your fixing pointsHold the panel against the wall at your marked height, check it's level, and mark through the panel's fixing holes (or use a paper template). Line up as many points as you can with the studs or battens you found in step 2. For a wide panel, plan extra mid-span fixings between studs so it doesn't sag or bow in the middle.
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Spirit level
AB-05Fix into timber studs or battensIf step 2 showed timber behind, drill a pilot hole through the lath and plaster (often 20-30mm thick) and into the centre of the stud or batten. Use a wood screw long enough to bite at least 30mm into solid timber beyond the plaster thickness. Drive it slowly and stop once it's snug - lath and plaster cracks easily if you overtighten.
8 each · Wood screws 4x60mm
1 each · Drill bit set (wood)
AB-06Fix into solid masonry behind the plasterIf step 2 showed brick or block behind, drill through the lath and plaster and into the masonry with a bit matched to your wall plug, going deep enough for at least 30mm of plug in solid material beyond the plaster. Push in the plug and drive the screw. Total screw length usually needs to be 55-65mm to clear the plaster and batten and still bite into masonry properly.
8 each · Wall plugs (brown, 6mm)
8 each · Screws 6x60mm
1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm
AB-07Add mid-span fixings between studs, if neededWhere a fixing point falls between studs, don't use a standard plasterboard toggle - lath and plaster is a different thickness and can crack around it. Either use a long fixing designed for lath and plaster, or fit a thin timber batten across between the studs first so you have solid timber to screw into. Drill a small pilot hole first to reduce the risk of cracking the surrounding plaster.
4 each · Lath and plaster fixings
1 length · Timber batten 25x50mm
4 each · Screws 4x50mm
AB-08Fit spacers to lift the board off the wallPegboard hooks need a gap behind the board to sit in, usually around 25mm. Thread a spacer onto each screw before fixing, or fix a thin timber batten frame to the wall first and screw the pegboard onto that instead.
8 each · Pegboard spacers
AB-09Lift the panel into place and fix itWith a helper if the panel is large, lift it onto the marked position and line up each pilot hole with its fixing. Drive the screws through the spacers into the wall fixings, snugging each one down evenly rather than fully tightening one before starting the next.
1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver
AB-10Check it's level and tighten everythingRun a spirit level across the top and down each side, and adjust if it's out. Tighten all fixings evenly, working from the centre outward, and stop before you crack the plaster near the edges of the panel.
1 each · Spirit level
AB-11Tidy upVacuum up plaster, brick or timber dust from the floor and skirting. Patch any small cracks around the fixing points with a dab of filler and let it dry. Dispose of debris and put your tools away.
1 tube · Filler
1 each · Filling knife
1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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