Put up a scaffold board shelf with pipe brackets on a lath and plaster wall — HomeGraft

Hang a scaffold board shelf on pipe brackets safely, checking what's behind your wall before drilling and fixing it securely.

SB-01Plan the height, length and loadDecide where the shelf goes and mark the top edge with a pencil and spirit level. Check there's nothing in the way above (light fittings, coving) or below (doorframes, worktops). Scaffold board shelves look chunky but are still only as strong as their brackets and fixings, so think about what you'll actually store on it before you commit to the position.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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SB-02Gather tools and materialsLay everything out before you start: drill, driver, detector, bits, brackets, board and fixings. Put a dust sheet down below the work area — lath and plaster makes a lot of fine plaster dust and grit when drilled.

1 each · Combi drill/driver

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1 each · Cable and stud detector

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1 each · Dust sheet

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SB-03Find your stopcock and check the circuit before you drillBefore any drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns. That way, if you ever hit a pipe, you can shut the water off in seconds. Cables and pipes in old lath and plaster walls can run in odd places, not just neat 'safe zones', so if there's any doubt about what's in the wall at your marked height, isolate that circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

SB-04Work out what's actually behind the lath and plasterLath and plaster is just a thin skin — the brackets need to bite into whatever is behind it, either timber studs or solid brick/block behind timber battens. Run your detector across the wall and look for the pattern of a stud line, or drill a small pilot hole and check what comes out: pale wood dust means timber, grey grit means masonry, and fine grey metal swarf means the wall has been re-boarded onto a metal stud frame at some point. If the wall's been overboarded more recently you may find ordinary plasterboard on timber or metal studs, or dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry, rather than the original lath — check before you assume.

1 each · 1.5mm drill bit for pilot hole check

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SB-05Drill and fix using the right method for your wallFor solid brick or block behind the lath: drill a 7mm hole through the plaster and lath into the masonry to at least 45mm, fit a red or brown wall plug, and use a 60–70mm screw. For a timber stud behind the lath: drill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and use a 50–60mm wood screw — never a plug. For a metal stud (if the wall's been reboarded): never use a wood screw or plastic plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow wall anchor, but know that a metal stud alone will not hold this shelf's load once it's loaded up and levered on; you need a timber noggin between the studs or a fixing through to solid masonry behind. For dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a fixing long enough to clear the 10–65mm air gap and bite into the masonry behind, typically 75–90mm, not a shorter toggle sat in the board alone. Never rely on the bare plaster and lath itself to hold any weight — it will crumble under load.

8 each · Wall plugs (red, for masonry)

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8 each · Woodscrews 60mm

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8 each · Metal stud self-drilling fixings

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8 each · Long masonry screws 90mm (for dot-and-dab)

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1 length · Timber noggin (if fitting one behind metal studs)

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1 each · Masonry drill bit 7mm

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SB-06Fit the pipe brackets to the wallHold each bracket in position against your marked line and check it's level before drilling. Mark the screw holes through the bracket, drill, then fix with the correct method from the previous step. Fit both brackets the same way, then check they're level with each other before moving on.

1 pair · Cast iron pipe brackets (pair)

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SB-07Cut the scaffold board to lengthMeasure and mark your cut line square across the board. Cut with a hand saw or circular saw, then sand the cut edge and any rough faces smooth. If you want a finished look, apply a coat of danish oil or wax and leave it to dry fully before fitting.

1 length · Scaffold board (225 x 38mm)

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1 each · Handsaw or circular saw

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1 sheet · Sandpaper (medium grit)

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1 tin · Danish oil or wax finish

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SB-08Fix the board onto the bracketsLift the board onto the fitted brackets and check it sits flat and level. Drill a small pilot hole down through the board into each bracket's fixing point, then screw down firmly. Don't overtighten — wood can split if you force a screw in too hard.

4 each · Woodscrews 40mm (for board to bracket)

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SB-09Check level and test the loadRun the spirit level along the board and adjust if needed before the fixings are fully tightened. Push and pull gently on the shelf to check nothing moves or flexes. Add weight gradually over the next few days rather than loading it fully straight away, especially if your fixings are into a stud or dot-and-dab wall.

SB-10Clear upVacuum plaster dust and screw shavings from the floor and windowsills. Fold up the dust sheet carefully so dust doesn't scatter, and bin any board off-cuts and packaging.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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