Put up a wall-mounted clothes rail on a timber stud wall — HomeGraft

Mount a clothes rail on a timber stud wall safely, checking studs, cables and pipes before drilling.

CR-01Plan the job and mark the heightDecide where the rail will sit — most clothes rails are fixed around 1600-1700mm from the floor. Hold the rail or bracket kit against the wall and mark a level line with a pencil and spirit level. Check nothing behind the wall will get in the way, such as a light switch or socket.

1 each · Tape measure

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Pencil

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Torpedo spirit level

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CR-02Find the studs and check what they're made ofRun a stud detector or magnet along the wall at your marked height and follow the line of screw heads under the plasterboard — these mark the studs. Tap the wall: a dull thud means solid backing, a hollow knock means you're between studs. If you're not sure whether the frame is timber or metal, drill a small 3mm pilot hole into the stud — fine wood dust means timber, bright metal swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Cordless drill

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · 3mm HSS drill bit

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CR-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones' — a detector helps but can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Always assume something might be there until you've proved otherwise. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

CR-04Fix the first bracketFor a timber stud: drill a 4mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a No.8 x 60mm wood screw through the bracket. For a metal stud: never use a wood screw or plastic plug, as they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or toggle-type hollow-wall anchor instead. If the bracket lands between studs on plain plasterboard, use a nylon or metal spring toggle rated for at least the weight of the loaded rail, not a plastic wall plug.

1 pack · No.8 x 60mm wood screws (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

2 each · Metal-stud hollow-wall toggle fixing

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · 4mm HSS drill bit

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CR-05If your wall turns out to be masonry, dot-and-dab, or lath and plasterFor solid brick or block: drill with a 6mm masonry bit to 50mm depth, fit a red wall plug, and drive in a 50mm screw. For dot-and-dab plasterboard: the board sits on foam dabs with an air gap behind, so use a fixing long enough — usually 60-75mm — to pass through the void and bite into the masonry behind; tap gently first to find a solid dab if you can. For lath and plaster: old lime plaster crumbles easily, so find a solid timber lath or the stud/noggin behind it rather than screwing straight into loose plaster, and support the bracket with your hand while you drive the fixing.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Red wall plugs (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · 50mm masonry screws (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Bradawl

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CR-06Mark and fix the second bracketHold the rail or a straight batten against the fixed bracket, level it, and mark the second fixing point. Repeat the stud check and drilling method from CR-04 or CR-05 depending on what you find at this second point — walls sometimes change construction partway along, especially near a corner or old chimney breast. Fit the second bracket using the same fixing type as the first.

CR-07Fit the rail and test the loadSlot or screw the rail into both brackets following the kit's instructions, and check it sits level with your spirit level. Hang a few heavy coats on it and give it a firm downward tug to check the fixings hold without any movement or crumbling plaster. If a metal-stud fixing flexes or feels loose under load, it won't cope with a full rail of clothes long-term — you'll need to add a timber noggin between the studs or fix through to the masonry behind instead.

1 each · Wall-mounted clothes rail kit (2 brackets + rail)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

CR-08Tidy upVacuum up drilling dust and any plaster debris from the floor and skirting. Wipe down the wall and check all screws are fully tightened. Put dust sheets and tools away.

1 each · Dust sheet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides