WALLS & STRUCTURE

Fit a picture rail to a lath and plaster wall

Mark, cut, drill and fix a picture rail safely along a wall, finishing with filled joints and matching paint.

PR-01Plan the height and buy materialsDecide on your rail height - traditionally 300-400mm down from the ceiling, or level with the top of door architraves. Measure the room's perimeter and add 10% for mitres and waste. Buy picture rail moulding, matching brass picture hooks if you plan to hang pictures from it, and wood filler for the finish.
12 m · Picture rail moulding
1 tube · Wood filler
1 each · Tape measure
PR-02Check what's behind the wall before you drillOn a lath and plaster wall, the timber laths are nailed to studs spaced roughly 400-600mm apart. Use a stud detector or run a magnet along the wall to find the nail heads, and tap gently - a dull thud is a stud, a hollow sound is the gap between them. A small pilot hole that brings up timber dust confirms a timber stud; fine grey swarf means you've hit metal instead, which can happen if a previous repair used a stud partition rather than lath and plaster. Cables and pipes can run anywhere in a wall, and detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit and anything behind metal-backed board, so treat any clear reading as a warning, not a guarantee - find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, and if you're at all unsure, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
1 each · Stud detector
PR-03Mark a level lineMark your chosen height at each end of the wall, then use a spirit level to draw a continuous pencil line between them. Add extra marks every 300mm so you have a clear guide as you offer up each length of rail. Check the line against door and window tops - a slight adjustment now avoids an obviously crooked rail later.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Pencil
PR-04Cut the mitresCut internal and external corners at 45°, working from your marked line to get accurate lengths. Dry-fit each piece before fixing anything, checking the joints close up tightly. Number the pieces in order round the room so you don't mix them up later.
1 each · Mitre saw
PR-05Choose the right fixing for your wallOn lath and plaster, fix into the timber studs behind the laths using a 50-63mm wood screw driven into the centre of each stud - avoid screwing into bare lath between studs, as it's thin and crumbles. If a section has been patched with plasterboard on timber studs, a 40mm wood screw into the stud centre works the same way. If you find plasterboard on metal studs, never use a plain wall plug or wood screw - they strip straight through 0.5mm steel - use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing instead, and remember a metal stud won't hold anything heavy or anything that pulls away from the wall, so add a timber noggin for heavier fittings. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and the air gap into the masonry behind, typically 60-75mm; on solid brick or block, drill with a 6mm masonry bit, insert a wall plug, and drive a 40mm screw.
30 each · Wood screws 50mm
10 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings
20 each · Masonry wall plugs
10 each · Masonry screws 75mm
1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm
PR-06Fix the rail along the wallOffer up each cut length against your marked line, holding it steady while you drill a pilot hole through the moulding into the stud or fixing point. Drive the screw home, keeping the top edge tight to your pencil line. Work along the wall piece by piece, checking level every metre or so as you go.
1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver
PR-07Fill and sandFill every screw hole and mitre gap with wood filler, pressing it in firmly with a flexible filling knife. Leave it to dry fully, then sand back flush with fine sandpaper until you can't feel the joint under your fingers.
1 pack · Fine sandpaper
1 each · Filling knife
PR-08Paint and tidy upPrime any bare wood, then apply your chosen paint to match the skirting or woodwork elsewhere in the room. Vacuum up plaster dust from drilling into the lath and plaster before it settles into carpets or soft furnishings. Remove dust sheets and check the rail is secure by giving it a firm push at a few points.
1 tin · Wood primer
1 tin · Matching paint
2 each · Dust sheet

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