Fit a towel ring to a lath and plaster wall

Fix a towel ring securely to your bathroom wall, checking what's behind it and using a fixing that matches your wall type.

TR-01Gather your tools and materialsGet everything together before you start: towel ring, detector, drill, screwdriver, pencil, spirit level and dust sheet. Lay a dust sheet under the work area to catch dust and screws. Check the towel ring pack for the fixing type it comes with — many need swapping out for a lath and plaster wall.

1 each · Towel ring (with backplate)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Pencil

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TR-02Find your stopcock and check your consumer unitBefore you drill anything, find your stopcock — usually under the kitchen sink — and check it turns freely. This means you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what is behind the wall, know where your consumer unit is so you can isolate the circuit before drilling.

TR-03Mark the position and check what's behind the wallHold the ring at the height you want, mark the screw holes with a pencil, and check they're level using a spirit level. Run a detector over the marked spots, but treat this as a guide, not proof — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or outside the usual safe zones near sockets and switches. Avoid drilling directly above or below sockets, and stay clear of any pipework you can see or hear behind the wall.

1 each · Cable and stud detector

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1 each · Spirit level

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TR-04Work out what kind of wall you're fixing intoLath and plaster feels slightly springy and sounds hollow with a dull, uneven knock, and a small pilot hole brings out old lime plaster dust with tiny splinters of wood lath behind it. If you're not fixing into lath and plaster, check for a stud wall: run a magnet or detector along the wall looking for a line of screw heads, and listen for the hollow sound between studs. A pilot hole into a timber stud brings out pale wood dust; a pilot hole into a metal stud brings out fine grey steel swarf and feels gritty, not powdery. Solid brick or block feels solid all over with no hollow sound, and dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow near the middle of a wall but solid nearer the edges, where the boards are dabbed to the masonry.

TR-05Drill the fixing holesCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, so drill slowly and stop the moment you feel a change in resistance or see anything other than dust. For lath and plaster, drill through the plaster and lath at a slow speed to avoid cracking the surrounding plaster, using a 6mm masonry bit for a standard wall plug into the lath timber or the brick behind it if you reach it. For solid brick or block, use a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of about 45mm. For plasterboard on timber studs, drill a small pilot hole into the centre of the stud with a 3mm bit. For plasterboard on metal studs, use a 3-4mm bit sized to the fixing pack. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, drill through the board and check whether you hit an air gap or the masonry behind — you may need a longer fixing to reach through to the wall.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 each · Wood/metal drill bit set 3-4mm

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TR-06Fit the right wall plug or anchor for your wallFor lath and plaster or solid brick and block, push in a plastic wall plug sized to match your drill bit and screw. For plasterboard on timber studs, skip the plug and drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud. For plasterboard on metal studs, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or toggle-type hollow-wall anchor made for steel — never a plain plastic plug or ordinary wood screw, as these strip straight through 0.5mm steel. For plasterboard between studs with no stud behind, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight of a towel ring holding wet towels. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board, the adhesive dabs and into the masonry behind for a solid hold.

1 pack · Wall plugs (pack)

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1 pack · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings (pack)

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1 pack · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors (pack)

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TR-07Screw the backplate to the wallHold the backplate against your marked holes and drive the screws in with a screwdriver, checking again with the spirit level as you go. Don't overtighten — stop as soon as the plate sits flush and firm against the wall. On lath and plaster, tighten gently, as old plaster can crack if you force a screw too hard.

1 pack · Fixing screws (supplied with ring or pack)

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TR-08Fit the ring and test itClip or screw the ring onto the backplate as per the instructions in the pack. Give it a firm pull and a bit of a wobble test to check it's solid before you trust it with wet towels. If it moves at all in a stud wall, it's likely not sitting in the stud or a properly rated anchor — take it out and refit.

TR-09Clean upLift the dust sheet carefully to keep dust off the floor and out of the bath or basin. Wipe down the wall and skirting with a damp cloth to remove any last dust. Put drill bits and leftover fixings away for next time.

1 each · Cloth

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