Fit a towel rail to a lath and plaster wall — HomeGraft

Hang a towel rail safely and securely, working out your wall type first and using the correct fixings for it.

TR-01Clear the area and get your tools readyLay a dust sheet under the work area and clear anything below the wall. This guide covers fixing the rail body to the wall; if you're plumbing in a heated rail or wiring an electric one, that's separate plumbing or electrical work. Check the fixing centres on your rail (the distance between the mounting holes) so you know what you're marking up later.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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TR-02Find your stopcock and check for cables and pipesCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones, and bathrooms often hide pipework behind lath and plaster for taps or heating. Run a detector over the area, but don't trust it completely — it can miss cables that are deep, boxed in metal, or behind old metal lath. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, turn the water off at the stopcock and switch off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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TR-03Confirm exactly what your wall is made ofLath and plaster feels slightly springy and hollow, and old fixing holes tend to crumble at the edges rather than stay crisp. If the wall feels cold, solid and dense, or a pilot hole brings out orange dust, you actually have solid brick or block, so follow the masonry method in the next steps instead. A hollow, even sound with a magnet catching on a line of screw heads means plasterboard on metal studs; the same hollow sound with no magnet pull means timber studs. Dot-and-dab sounds hollow across most of the wall but solid every 400-600mm where the adhesive dabs sit.

TR-04Mark and level the fixing holesHold the rail or its bracket against the wall at your chosen height, usually around 1200-1400mm from the floor, and check it clears any towel rail below or sink beside it. Use a spirit level to draw a level line across the wall, then mark through the bracket's fixing holes onto the line. Double check both marks are level with each other before you drill anything.

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Pencil

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TR-05Drill a pilot hole and read what comes outDrill a small pilot hole at one mark first, going slowly. On lath and plaster you'll feel the drill pass through a thin hard skin, then thin timber laths, sometimes into an empty gap beyond — don't force it. Fine orange brick dust means solid masonry behind. Metal swarf instead of wood dust means you've hit a metal stud, not timber, so stop and re-check with your detector before going any further.

1 set · Drill bit set (masonry and wood)

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1 each · Dust mask

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TR-06Fit the right screws and plugs for your wallLath and plaster: aim for the timber stud or joist behind the laths wherever you can reach one, using a screw long enough to pass through the plaster and lath (about 15-20mm) plus at least 25mm into solid timber. If you must fix between studs, use a long spring toggle rated for the weight — direct screws crack old plaster and laths on their own. Solid brick or block: drill 6mm and fit a matching red or brown wall plug before driving the screw home. Plasterboard on timber studs: drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud, no plug needed. Plasterboard on metal studs: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle rated for steel track — never a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs and bite into the masonry behind, typically 50-65mm. Whatever wall type you have, a stud or lath alone won't hold a towel rail against the constant pulling of drying yourself — fit a timber noggin between studs, use a pattress plate across two studs, or fix through to the masonry behind if you can.

8 each · Wall plugs, assorted

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2 each · Spring toggle fixings (rated)

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2 each · Metal-stud toggle fixings

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4 each · Wood screws, No. 8 x 50mm

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1 each · Timber noggin (if needed)

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TR-07Fix the brackets to the wallPush each fixing into its hole and drive the screw in firmly but don't overtighten, especially on lath and plaster or plasterboard, where over-tightening can crack the surface or spin the fixing loose. Check each bracket sits flush against the wall with no wobble. Recheck level once both brackets are in place, before hanging the rail itself.

1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver bit

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TR-08Hang and secure the railLift the rail onto the fixed brackets and lock it in place following your rail's fitting method — usually a locking screw or clip on the underside of each bracket. Run the spirit level along the top of the rail one more time and adjust if needed before final tightening.

1 each · Towel rail

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TR-09Load test and finish offHang a wet towel or two on the rail and lean on it gently to check nothing shifts or creaks. If you're fixing near a shower or bath, run a thin bead of sanitary sealant around any gap between the bracket and the wall to stop water getting in behind it. Leave the sealant to cure for the time stated on the tube before it gets wet.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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TR-10Tidy upFold up the dust sheet away from the room to keep dust contained, and vacuum any plaster or brick dust from the floor and skirting. Wipe down the wall and rail with a damp cloth. Put tools away and dispose of any old wall plugs or debris.

1 each · Cloth

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