Fit a walk-in shower screen panel to a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a shower screen securely, checking your wall type first so it won't pull away when the door is used.

SS-01Check your kit and measure the openingUnpack the shower screen and check you have the glass panel, wall channel, seals and fixing pack. Measure the opening's width at the top, middle and bottom, and check the wall is flat and square. Most screens need a finished opening within 5mm of the panel size, so check this against the maker's instructions before you drill anything.

1 each · Shower screen panel kit

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1 each · Tape measure

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SS-02Work out what's behind the tilesRun a stud detector or a strong magnet over the fixing area. A magnet that grabs a line of screw heads means a timber stud; one that only catches on a thin strip, or skips about, means a metal stud track. Tap the wall - a dull, solid sound usually means brick, block or dot-and-dab on masonry, while a hollow drum sound between fixed points means a stud wall. If still unsure, drill a 3mm pilot hole in an unseen spot: pale wood dust means timber, fine grey shavings mean a metal stud, and white or grey powder means masonry or plasterboard.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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SS-03Find your stopcock and check for cables and pipesBefore drilling anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. Sweep every fixing point with a cable and pipe detector, but treat it as a warning, not a guarantee - detectors miss cables that run deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed board, or outside the usual safe zones, and a metal stud frame confuses cheap detectors further. If there's any doubt, isolate the electrics at the consumer unit and turn the water off at the stopcock before you drill or cut anything.

SS-04Check for solid backing behind the fixing pointsA shower screen gets pulled and leaned on every time the door opens, so the fixing must not work loose. On timber studs, aim fixings into the centre of a stud. On metal studs, a standard self-drilling fixing holds a lightweight rail but won't hold a shower screen against constant pulling. If there's no timber noggin already fitted between the studs at hinge height, open the wall, screw in a noggin (typically 45x70mm), then patch and re-tile before fitting the screen - or fix through to solid masonry behind if it's within reach.

1 length · Timber noggin (45x70mm)

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1 each · Plasterboard offcut for patching

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10 each · Drywall screws (38mm)

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SS-05Mark and drill the fixing holesHold the wall channel in place, check it's plumb with a spirit level, and mark the fixing holes through the tile with a felt-tip pen. Use a tile bit or a sharp masonry bit at low speed to break through the glaze without cracking it, then swap to the right bit size for your wall type once through the tile. Keep light, steady pressure - forcing the drill is the most common way to crack a tile.

1 set · Tile drill bit set

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1 each · Fine marker pen

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SS-06Fix the wall channel for your wall typeIn solid brick or block, drill to the depth marked on the plug and use a 6mm or 8mm plug with a matching screw. In timber studs, use a 50-60mm wood screw into the centre of the stud, or into the noggin you fitted earlier. In metal studs, use a heavy-duty toggle-type hollow wall anchor or long self-drilling metal stud screw rated for pull-out load, fixed into the noggin - never a plain plastic wall plug or ordinary wood screw, both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Through dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to cross the dab gap and grip at least 25-30mm into the masonry behind; check the gap first with a long thin drill bit. On lath and plaster, avoid fixing into the laths - find the timber stud behind, or use a long fixing into solid masonry if the wall is solid-backed.

4 each · Masonry plugs (6-8mm) and screws

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4 each · Wood screws (50-60mm)

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4 each · Heavy-duty metal stud toggle fixings

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4 each · Long fixing screws for dot-and-dab

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SS-07Fit the return panel or second channel if it's a corner fitIf the screen returns into a corner, repeat the same wall checks and fixing choices for the second wall before fitting any glass. Use packers behind the channel if the wall isn't perfectly flat, and check both channels are plumb and level with each other before tightening anything fully.

6 each · Plastic packers

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SS-08Fit the glass panel and check it's levelSlide the glass panel into the wall channel, following the maker's sequence for seals and clips. Check the panel is plumb with a spirit level and adjust the packers behind the channel if needed. Snug the fixings down evenly - don't fully tighten one side before checking the other, or you'll twist the frame out of square.

SS-09Fit hinges, handle and closing sealFit any door hinges, handle and magnetic closing strip as per the instructions, usually with the small self-tapping screws supplied. Check the door swings freely and closes flush against the seal without rubbing on the tray or fixed panel.

1 set · Hinge and handle fixing screws (supplied)

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SS-10Seal the panel to the wall and trayRun a neat bead of silicone along the joint between the panel frame and the tiled wall, and along the base where the frame meets the shower tray. Smooth it with a sealant tool or a wet finger before it skins over, and leave it to cure fully - usually 24 hours - before using the shower.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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SS-11Test and tidy upRun the shower for a few minutes and check for drips along every sealed joint and fixing point. Wipe down the glass and tiles, sweep up any dust or tile chips, and put your tools away. If you see water tracking behind the screen, stop and re-seal before it's used again.

1 each · Cloth and glass cleaner

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