SR-05Drill and fit the right fixing for your wallFor this job's dot-and-dab wall: plasterboard alone won't hold a rack that gets pulled and knocked as shoes go on and off. Drill through the board and the air gap behind it into the solid masonry, using a masonry bit sized to your fixing, then fit a long fixing such as a 10 x 120mm frame fixing so it grips the masonry, not just the dab. For solid brick or block, drill with a masonry bit, insert a wall plug (Rawlplug) to at least 40mm depth, and use a matching woodscrew. For timber studs, find the centre of the stud, drill a 2-3mm pilot hole, and drive a 5 x 50mm woodscrew straight in. For metal studs, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the weight — never a plain wall plug or ordinary woodscrew, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel; if the rack will be pulled or leant on, fit a timber noggin between the studs first, or fix through to masonry behind. For plasterboard between studs, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the load. For lath and plaster, drill a pilot hole and aim for the timber lath or a batten behind rather than relying on the brittle plaster, and avoid expanding toggle fixings that can crack it.