SHELVING & STORAGE

Hang a wall-mounted storage cabinet on a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

Mark, drill and fix a wall cabinet safely and level, checking for cables, pipes and wall type first.

CB-01Plan the job and check the cabinet's weightDecide where the cabinet goes, keeping it clear of doors, windows and worktops so it opens without knocking anything. Check the manufacturer's instructions for the total weight when loaded and the spacing between fixing points on the back panel. Heavier cabinets (over about 15-20kg loaded) need stronger fixings, so weigh up what you'll actually store in it before you buy fixings.
1 each · Wall cabinet
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
CB-02Work out what your wall is actually made ofKnock the wall. A dull, solid thud everywhere usually means solid brick or block. A hollow sound that changes as you move along, with a slightly springy feel, points to dot-and-dab plasterboard fixed onto dabs of adhesive over solid masonry. Run a stud detector or a magnet along the wall to find fixing points: evenly spaced screw heads roughly 400-600mm apart mean a timber or metal stud wall, and a small pilot hole will tell you which — timber dust means wood studs, fine grey swarf means metal studs. Lath and plaster (common in pre-1930s houses) sounds hollow but slightly crumbly, and you'll often see horizontal wooden strips if you look in an old hole or socket cut-out.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
1 each · Small magnet
CB-03Check for pipes and cables before you drill anythingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones' people talk about, so run a detector over the whole area first. Detectors still miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or in a metal stud frame, which confuses cheaper detectors — so treat the detector as a first check, not proof. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling near it.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
CB-04Mark and level the cabinet positionHold the cabinet (or its template, if it came with one) against the wall at the height you want and mark the top edge with a pencil. Use a spirit level to draw a level line across the wall, then measure down from it to mark each fixing hole using the spacing from the back of the cabinet. Double-check the marks are level and correctly spaced before you drill — it's much easier to fix now than to fill and redo holes later.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Pencil
1 roll · Masking tape
CB-05Choose the right fixing for your wall typeFor dot-and-dab plasterboard (the usual case for this job), you need a long fixing that passes through the plasterboard, crosses the air gap behind it, and grips into the solid masonry behind — a standard wall plug is too short and will only hold the plasterboard, not the wall. For solid brick or block with no dot-and-dab, use a standard wall plug and screw sized to the load. For a timber stud wall, use a wood screw driven into the centre of the stud. For a metal stud wall, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor made for metal studs — never a plain wall plug or ordinary wood screw, as both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. A metal stud alone will not hold a fully loaded cabinet safely; if that's what you have, fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind. For lath and plaster, standard wall plugs will crumble the lath — use a long fixing that reaches past the laths into solid masonry, or a specialist lath-and-plaster fixing.
6 each · Dot-and-dab / hollow wall fixings (92mm)
4 each · Metal stud toggle fixings (for metal stud walls)
4 each · Wood screws 50mm (for timber stud walls)
6 each · Rawlplugs and screws (for solid masonry)
CB-06Drill the fixing holesBefore drilling, run the detector check from Step CB-03 one more time over each exact mark, and make sure your stopcock (and consumer unit, if in doubt) are ready to use. For dot-and-dab, drill through the plasterboard and the air gap first at a slower speed so you feel the drill break through into solid masonry, then switch to a masonry bit and drill to the depth stated on the fixing packet, usually 50-60mm into the brick or block. For timber studs, drill a pilot hole into the centre of the stud. For metal studs, use a self-drilling fixing that doesn't need a pilot hole, or drill a small pilot hole first if the fixing calls for one.
1 each · Combi drill
1 each · Masonry drill bit (matched to fixing)
1 each · Wood or metal drill bit (matched to fixing)
CB-07Fit the fixings and hang the cabinetPush or tap the fixings into the holes so they sit flush, then wind the screws in enough to grip firmly without crushing the plasterboard against the dabs. Lift the cabinet onto the fixings, or hold it against them and drive the screws through the cabinet's back plate, following the manufacturer's instructions. Check the cabinet is level with the spirit level and adjust before fully tightening.
1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver bit
CB-08Load test and tidy upOnce fitted, put a light load in the cabinet and check for any movement, creaking, or the fixings pulling away from the wall before loading it fully. Wipe away any dust and pack away tools. Keep the fixing packaging so you know what type and size you used, in case you need to buy matching fixings later.
1 each · Vacuum or brush for dust

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