WALLS & STRUCTURE

Fit shaker-style wall panelling to a solid brick or block wall

Fit MDF shaker panelling to a solid wall, from measuring and cutting to filling, sanding and painting for a smooth finish.

SP-01Plan your panel layoutMeasure the wall's height and length. Decide on a rail height — 750-900mm for a dado-style look, or up to 1200mm for full wainscoting — and space vertical stiles evenly, usually 400-600mm apart. Sketch the grid on paper first and work out how many lengths of MDF moulding you need.
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Notepad or graph paper
SP-02Check and prepare the wallThe wall needs to be dry, sound and reasonably flat. Fill any large holes or cracks with filler and let it dry fully. Remove any picture rail or loose fittings that are in the way, then wipe the wall down to clear dust and grease.
1 tub · Multi-purpose filler
3 sheets · Sandpaper (120 grit)
1 each · Cloth
SP-03Mark the layout on the wallUse a spirit level and pencil to draw horizontal lines for the top and bottom rails. Mark vertical lines for each stile at your chosen spacing, checking every line is plumb as you go. A long spirit level or laser level makes this much more accurate across a full wall.
1 each · Spirit level (1m)
1 each · Pencil
SP-04Cut the MDF rails and stiles to lengthMeasure each section from your marked layout and cut primed MDF panel moulding to length with a mitre saw, cutting 45° angles where rails and stiles will meet. Number each piece with pencil on the back as you cut, so you know exactly where it goes on the wall.
8 lengths · Primed MDF panel moulding (2.4m lengths)
1 each · Mitre saw
SP-05Check for pipes and cables before you drillRun a detector over the whole wall before drilling — cables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, so treat every mark as a possible hit and still expect something to be there until you've proved otherwise. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you're at all unsure what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
SP-06Fix the bottom railApply grab adhesive to the back of the bottom rail in a zigzag pattern and press it firmly onto the marked line. Drill pilot holes through the rail into the brick or block at roughly 400mm centres, using a masonry bit sized to your wall plugs, then fix with plugs and screws to hold it while the adhesive cures.
1 tube · Grab adhesive
10 each · Wall plugs (red, 6mm)
10 each · Screws (40mm)
1 each · Masonry drill bit (6mm)
SP-07Fix the vertical stilesWorking from your marked vertical lines, glue and fix each stile the same way as the bottom rail — adhesive first, then mechanical fixings into the brick or block every 400mm. Butt the mitred ends against the bottom rail so the joint sits tight and square.
1 tube · Grab adhesive
16 each · Wall plugs (red, 6mm)
16 each · Screws (40mm)
SP-08Fix the top railGlue and fix the top rail along its marked line in the same way, keeping the mitred joints tight against the tops of the stiles. Check the whole grid is square before the adhesive starts to grab.
1 tube · Grab adhesive
8 each · Wall plugs (red, 6mm)
8 each · Screws (40mm)
SP-09Check alignment and let the adhesive cureRun the spirit level across every rail and stile while the adhesive is still workable, and nudge anything that's out of line. Wipe away any adhesive that's squeezed out at the joints, then leave the whole panel to cure for at least 24 hours, or as long as the adhesive tube says, before you fill or paint.
1 each · Spirit level (1m)
1 each · Damp cloth
SP-10Fill joints, gaps and screw holesRun decorators' caulk along the mitred joints and along the edges where the MDF meets the wall, smoothing it with a wet finger. Fill any visible screw holes with fine surface filler. Leave everything to dry fully before sanding.
1 tube · Decorators' caulk
1 tub · Fine surface filler
3 sheets · Sandpaper (180 grit)
SP-11Sand, prime and paintSand all filled areas smooth and wipe away dust. Apply a coat of primer or undercoat if the MDF isn't already fully sealed, then two coats of eggshell or satin paint, leaving the recommended drying time between coats.
1 litre · Primer/undercoat
1 litre · Eggshell or satin paint
1 set · Paintbrush and small roller
SP-12Tidy upRemove any masking tape once the final coat is touch-dry. Vacuum up sawdust and offcuts, wipe down skirting and flooring, and put furniture back once the paint has fully cured.
1 each · Vacuum cleaner
1 each · Bin bags

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