SHELVING & STORAGE

Hang a wall-mounted storage cabinet on a timber stud wall

Fit a wall-mounted storage cabinet securely, checking your wall type first, then using the right fixings and hanging it level.

TSC-01Plan the position and gather your toolsDecide the height and position for the cabinet, checking it clears worktops, doors and light switches. Check the cabinet's instructions for the spacing between its fixing points. Get your drill, spirit level, tape measure and pencil ready before you start.
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Pencil
TSC-02Check for cables and pipes, and find your stopcockRun a cable and pipe detector over the whole area before you drill anything. Detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or running outside the usual safe zones, so still treat the wall as if something is there until you have proved otherwise. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
TSC-03Work out what your wall is made ofTap the wall: a solid, dull knock all over means brick or block. A hollow sound that changes to solid every 400mm to 600mm means a stud wall. Track a line of screw heads with a stud detector or small magnet along the skirting or ceiling to find the studs, then drill a tiny pilot hole into one: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud. If the wall sounds hollow but there is no regular stud pattern, and a bradawl pushed gently through finds a 10mm to 40mm air gap before hitting something solid, it is dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry. In pre-1930s homes with slightly springy walls, you likely have lath and plaster, thin timber strips nailed behind the plaster.
1 each · Stud detector or small magnet
TSC-04Mark and level the fixing pointsHold the cabinet or its mounting rail in position and mark the top edge with a spirit level. Mark each fixing hole through the cabinet or template, adjusting slightly if needed to land on a stud centre. Double-check the marks are level before you drill.
1 each · Spirit level
TSC-05Fix into solid brick or blockDrill a 6mm hole about 50mm deep for a standard wall plug, or 8mm if the cabinet will be heavily loaded. Push in a wall plug so it sits flush, then drive in a screw at least 60mm long. Use two fixings per bracket, spaced as wide apart as the cabinet allows.
1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm
1 pack · Wall plugs (pack of 20)
1 pack · Screws, No.8 x 60mm (pack)
TSC-06Fix into plasterboard on timber studsDrill a small pilot hole in the centre of the stud, about 2mm to 3mm narrower than your screw. Drive a wood screw at least 65mm long through the plasterboard and into the stud, so it goes at least 30mm into the timber. Never fix between studs on a timber wall without a proper plasterboard fixing, since there is nothing solid behind the board there.
1 each · Pilot drill bit, 3mm
1 pack · Wood screws, No.8 x 65mm (pack)
TSC-07Fix into plasterboard on metal studsNever use a plain plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw for light fixings straight into the stud, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor if fixing between studs. A loaded storage cabinet is heavier and pulls on the wall as items go in and out, so fit a timber noggin between the studs first, or fix through to the masonry behind, rather than relying on the studs alone.
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack)
1 pack · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors (pack)
1 length · Timber noggin, 50mm x 50mm
TSC-08Fix through dot-and-dab plasterboardDrill through the plasterboard and the air gap behind it, then on into the masonry wall behind, using a long fixing of around 90mm so it still reaches at least 40mm into solid brick or block. Use a frame fixing or a long masonry plug rated for the gap, not a short plug that only grips the plasterboard. Check the drill runs smoothly through the gap and bites again as it hits the masonry.
1 pack · Long frame fixings, 90mm (pack)
1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm
TSC-09Fix into lath and plasterFind the timber studs behind the laths the same way as a timber stud wall, then drill a pilot hole through the plaster and lath into the stud. Use a screw long enough to pass through the plaster and lath, typically 15mm to 20mm thicker than a normal stud wall, and still get 30mm into the timber. Drill slowly and support the plaster gently with your hand to stop it cracking around the hole.
1 each · Pilot drill bit, 3mm
1 pack · Wood screws, No.8 x 75mm (pack)
TSC-10Hang the cabinet and check it is secureLift the cabinet onto its fixings or rail and let it settle fully. Recheck it with a spirit level and adjust if needed. Tighten every screw fully, then give the cabinet a firm push and pull to check nothing moves.
TSC-11Load test and tidy upAdd items gradually rather than loading it all at once, checking the fixings stay tight as the weight goes on. Vacuum up any dust or debris from drilling. Fill any stray holes with filler and touch up the paint once it is dry.
1 each · Filler (small tube)

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