SHELVING & STORAGE

Hang a wall-mounted storage cabinet on a metal stud wall

Hang a wall cabinet securely, working out what's behind your wall first and using the right fixing for it.

MC-01Plan the job and gather your toolsDecide where the cabinet will sit, checking it clears light switches, sockets and any door swings. Kitchen-style wall cabinets are usually hung with their base around 1400-1500mm from the floor, but adjust to suit your reach and any units already fitted. Lay everything out before you start: drill, driver bits, spirit level, tape measure, pencil, detector and a dust sheet.
1 each · Cordless drill/driver
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
1 each · Tape measure
1 each · Dust sheet
MC-02Work out what's behind the wallRun a detector across the wall, then confirm what you've found: tap along the wall for a hollow sound between solid-feeling points, and look for a line of screw or nail heads under the paint or paper, usually at 400-600mm centres, which marks the studs. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot to check the dust: pale wood dust means a timber stud, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud, and solid resistance with no give at all usually means brick or block. If the drill goes through a hard skim then hits an air gap before reaching anything solid, you likely have dot-and-dab plasterboard on dabs of adhesive over masonry. An uneven, slightly springy surface with narrow wooden strips felt behind it is lath and plaster, common in older houses.
1 each · Stud/cable detector
1 each · Small drill bit (3mm)
MC-03Check safety before you drillA detector helps, but it can miss cables that run deep, sit in metal conduit, hide behind metal-backed plasterboard, or lie outside the usual safe zones — and a metal stud frame can confuse cheap detectors even further. Before drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry a pipe.
MC-04Mark the cabinet's fixing positionsHold the cabinet, or its backplate/bracket, against the wall at the height you want and use a spirit level to draw a true horizontal line. Mark through the fixing holes onto the wall, or measure their spacing off the cabinet and transfer it to your line. Double-check the marks against your stud or masonry findings from step MC-02 before drilling anything.
1 each · Pencil
MC-05Fit a noggin if you're on a metal or timber stud wallA metal stud on its own will not hold a loaded wall cabinet — it's fine for something light that sits flat against the wall, but a cabinet full of crockery pulls outward every time you open the door, and that will eventually rip the fixing out. Cut a small inspection hole in the plasterboard between two studs, screw a timber noggin (about 400mm long, 45x70mm) horizontally between the studs using metal-stud screws, then patch the plasterboard with a cut-in offcut and filler before it's fixed to. If you'd rather not cut into the wall, fix through to the masonry behind instead using fixings long enough to reach it. Skip this step entirely if you're fixing into solid brick or block.
1 each · Timber noggin (45x70mm, cut to length)
8 each · Metal stud self-drilling screws
1 pack · Plasterboard offcut and filler
MC-06Drill and fit the right fixings for your wallOn solid brick or block, drill an 8mm hole to a depth matching your Rawlplug, fit the plug and drive in a suitable screw. On a timber stud, drill a small pilot hole and drive a wood screw straight into the centre of the stud. On a metal stud, never use a plain wall plug or a wood screw — they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or toggle designed for metal studs, into the noggin fitted in MC-05 if the cabinet will carry any real weight. Between studs in plain plasterboard, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the cabinet's loaded weight; on dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs and bite into the masonry behind; on lath and plaster, avoid screwing into the laths alone as they split and pull free — locate a stud or noggin behind them, or use a long spring toggle rated for the load.
4 each · Rawlplugs and screws (masonry)
4 each · Wood screws (timber stud)
4 each · Metal-stud hollow-wall anchors/toggles
4 each · Long fixings for dot-and-dab
MC-07Lift the cabinet onto its fixingsWith a helper if the cabinet is large, lift it up and engage the keyhole slots or bracket onto the fixed screws or bracket rail. Check it's sitting level and square before doing anything else. Adjust the fixings slightly if needed rather than forcing the cabinet.
MC-08Secure and test the fixingAdd any lower or side fixing screws through the cabinet body itself for extra stability, tightening evenly so the cabinet doesn't twist. Before loading anything into it, give the cabinet a firm push and pull to check nothing flexes or creaks at the wall. If anything moves, stop and add or upgrade the fixing rather than loading the cabinet.
4 each · Cabinet fixing screws (as supplied)
MC-09Load the cabinet gradually and recheckAdd shelves and contents a little at a time, spreading weight evenly rather than piling it on one side. Recheck the cabinet is still level and firmly fixed after a day of normal use, especially if it's on a metal stud or dot-and-dab wall.
MC-10Tidy upVacuum up drilling dust and any offcuts from the noggin patch, and wipe down the wall and cabinet. Bag up and bin waste, and store leftover fixings for future jobs.
1 use · Vacuum cleaner

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