Put up a door curtain pole on a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a curtain pole above a door, working out your wall type first and choosing the fixing that actually holds.

DC-01Clear the area and gather your toolsMove any furniture away from the doorway and lay a dust sheet on the floor below. Get everything together before you start: pole kit, drill, detector, spirit level, pencil, tape measure and screwdriver. Working with everything to hand stops you climbing up and down the ladder repeatedly.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Step ladder

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DC-02Measure and mark the pole positionMeasure the width of the door frame and add at least 150mm on each side so the curtain can draw back fully. Mark the centre line above the frame in pencil, then measure down from the ceiling to set the pole height — usually 50-100mm above the frame, but check the finial and bracket depth first. Hold the pole itself against the wall to check it looks right before committing to marks.

1 each · Curtain pole kit (with brackets)

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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DC-03Work out what the wall is made ofRun a detector over the marked area, then check by hand too. A magnet that grabs onto screw heads in a line means timber studs behind plasterboard; a hollow sound with no magnetic pull could mean metal studs, so drill a small pilot hole (2mm) at a spot you'll cover with the bracket and check what comes out. Fine white dust with a solid stop behind it means solid brick or block, or dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry; timber dust means a timber stud; grey metal swarf means a metal stud. Lath and plaster feels springy and sounds hollow with a distinct crackle, and is common in pre-1930s houses.

1 each · Cable/stud detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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1 each · 2mm drill bit

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DC-04Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones' — a detector helps but can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or confused by a metal stud frame. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all about what's behind the wall, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling near it.

DC-05Mark and level the bracket positionsHold a bracket at each end mark and check both are level with a spirit level before making any pencil marks for the fixing holes. Double-check the pole will clear any door handle or hinge when it swings open. For a third, central bracket on a wide pole, mark and level that too before drilling anything.

1 each · Spirit level

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DC-06Drill and fix the brackets — method depends on your wallSolid brick or block: drill 6-8mm holes to 40-50mm depth, fit wall plugs, and use 50-60mm wood screws through the bracket. Timber stud wall: drill a small pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive a 50mm wood screw straight in — no plug needed. Metal stud wall: never use a plain wall plug or ordinary wood screw, as they strip straight through the 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the pole's full weight with curtains hung and someone tugging the fabric to open it. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard and the adhesive dabs into the solid masonry behind — typically 75-100mm. Lath and plaster: locate the timber laths behind the plaster and screw into them, or use a plasterboard-rated toggle fixing set well clear of any cracks, as the old plaster is brittle and can crumble.

6 each · Wall plugs (red, 6-8mm)

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6 each · Wood screws 50-60mm

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6 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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6 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors

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6 each · Long fixings for dot-and-dab (75-100mm)

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DC-07Add a noggin if the wall can't take the loadIf the wall is metal stud and the pole feels loose or wobbles when you tug the fabric — heavy curtains, thick fabric, or a pole that gets pulled hard when opened — a toggle fixing alone may not be enough. In that case, fit a timber noggin between the studs behind the bracket position, or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any, before refitting the bracket.

1 each · Timber noggin (50x50mm, cut to length)

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2 each · Metal stud noggin clips

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DC-08Fit the brackets and tighten fullyScrew each bracket in fully, checking it sits flush against the wall with no rocking or give. Give each one a firm downward and outward tug by hand to test it before hanging anything on it.

DC-09Fit the pole, rings and curtainsThread the curtain rings or hooks onto the pole before lifting it into the brackets. Rest the pole into the bracket cups and secure any locking clips or screws that hold it in place. Fit the finials on each end last.

1 pack · Curtain rings (pack)

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DC-10Test the pole and adjustDraw the curtains open and closed a few times to check the pole holds firm and doesn't dip. Re-check with the spirit level and tighten any bracket that has shifted.

DC-11Tidy upVacuum up any plaster or drilling dust from the floor and windowsill, and wipe down the wall. Fold away the dust sheet and dispose of the pole packaging.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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