Refix a radiator that's pulling away from a solid brick or block wall

Refit a sagging radiator's wall brackets safely, checking for pipes and cables before drilling new masonry fixings.

RD-01Turn off the heating and let the radiator coolSwitch off the boiler or turn the thermostat down so the system stops heating. Wait at least an hour until the radiator is cool enough to touch safely. Lay a dust sheet or old towels along the skirting below the radiator.

1 each · Dust sheet

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RD-02Shut the radiator valves and drain a little waterClose the manual valve at one end and the lockshield valve at the other (use a small spanner or screwdriver on the lockshield, and note its original position so you can reset it later). Undo the bleed screw slightly with a radiator key and let a small amount of water drain into a bowl to relieve pressure before you disconnect anything.

1 each · Radiator key

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1 each · Bowl or bucket

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RD-03Lift the radiator off the bracketsWith help if the radiator is large, lift it up and off the wall brackets, then rest it flat on a towel, propped so any leftover water drains out through the bleed valve. Check the wall behind: look for crumbling plaster, a loose plug, or a bracket that has pulled the surrounding brick or block away.

RD-04Remove the old brackets and clean the wallUnscrew the brackets from the wall. If the old plugs are loose or the hole has enlarged, they will usually pull straight out with the screw. Brush out dust and debris so you can see solid brick or block, not just a crumbly patch of plaster.

1 each · Screwdriver

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RD-05Check for pipes and cables before drillingEven in a solid wall, pipes and cables can run in unexpected places, including up to a radiator's own pipework. Run a detector over the area, but still treat it as a guess — detectors can miss cables that are deep or shielded. Before you drill, check where your stopcock is (usually under the kitchen sink) and make sure it turns, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the electrics at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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RD-06Drill new fixing holes in solid brick or blockMove the fixing point at least 30mm from the old hole if the brick has crumbled, so you're drilling into solid material. Use a masonry bit sized to match your wall plug (typically 8mm for a heavy-duty radiator plug) and drill to a depth of about 50-60mm, a few mm deeper than the plug length. Drill in short bursts and let the bit clear dust, keeping it level.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 8mm

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4 each · Heavy-duty wall plugs (Rawlplug type)

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RD-07Fit the new bracketsPush a heavy-duty plug into each hole until it's flush with the wall. Screw the bracket on using a coach screw or heavy-duty screw long enough to bite fully into the plug, tightening firmly but without overtightening and cracking the plug. Use a spirit level across both brackets to check they're level before you fully tighten.

4 each · Coach screws or heavy-duty fixing screws

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1 each · Spirit level

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RD-08Rehang the radiator and reconnect the valvesLift the radiator back onto the brackets, checking it sits square and doesn't rock. Open the manual valve fully and reset the lockshield valve to the position you noted earlier.

RD-09Bleed the radiator and check for leaksOpen the bleed valve with the radiator key until water runs out steadily with no air, then close it. Check the boiler pressure gauge and top up the system if needed, following your boiler's instructions. Feel around the valves and new fixings for any dampness.

1 each · Radiator key

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RD-10Turn the heating back on and tidy upSwitch the heating back on and let it run for 15-20 minutes, checking the radiator heats evenly and the wall fixings hold with no movement. Wipe away any dust, remove dust sheets, and dispose of the old plugs and screws.

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