Fit shaker-style wall panelling to a lath and plaster wall

Plan, mark and fix shaker-style panelling to a lath and plaster wall, finding hidden timber studs safely before drilling.

LP-01Clear the room and check the wallMove furniture clear of the wall and lay dust sheets. Press gently along the wall and listen for a dull, crumbly sound, which means loose or failing lath and plaster underneath. Repair any soft or bulging patches with plaster repair filler and let it dry fully before you start fixing panelling, since panelling relies on a sound wall behind it.

2 each · Dust sheets

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1 tub · Plaster repair filler

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1 each · Filling knife

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LP-02Measure the wall and plan the panel layoutMeasure the wall's width and height and decide how high the panelling will run, usually to dado height or around two-thirds up the wall. Mark the positions of the vertical stiles evenly, typically 300mm to 450mm apart, using a spirit level to keep every line plumb. Check your marks twice against the room's actual corners, since older lath and plaster walls are rarely perfectly square.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level 1200mm

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Chalk line

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LP-03Find the studs behind the lath and plasterLath and plaster is nailed to timber studs, never metal ones, so you are always looking for timber here. Run a stud detector or magnet across the wall to pick up the line of nail heads holding the laths, and confirm with the hollow-versus-solid sound test either side of the line. Drill a 3mm pilot hole where a fixing will be hidden later; timber dust confirms a stud, while hitting only crumbly plaster with no dust means you are between studs. Mark each stud centre clearly with masking tape so you don't lose the line once you start fixing.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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1 roll · Masking tape

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LP-04Do your safety checks before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, and a detector can miss deep cables, metal conduit, or anything outside the usual safe zones. Use the detector, but still assume something could be there until you've drilled a small test hole and checked what comes out. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before drilling anywhere near a bathroom or kitchen wall.

LP-05Cut the rails and stiles to lengthMeasure and cut the top rail, bottom rail and vertical stiles from your panelling kit to fit the marked layout. Cut slightly long and trim back if needed, since it's easier to remove wood than add it back. Lightly sand all cut edges smooth before fixing.

1 wall kit · MDF shaker panelling kit

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1 each · Handsaw or mitre saw

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1 pack · Sandpaper

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LP-06Fix the top railHold the top rail level along your marked line and check it with a spirit level. Drill a 3mm pilot hole at each stud position to stop the plaster cracking, then fix with a 60mm wood screw driven into the centre of each stud. Run a bead of grab adhesive along the back of the rail between fixings to add extra hold on the plaster where there's no stud.

1 box of 20 · Wood screws 60mm x 4mm

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1 tube · Grab adhesive

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1 each · 3mm pilot drill bit

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LP-07Fix the vertical stilesPosition each stile on its marked line, checking plumb with a spirit level before fixing. Fix into the top and bottom rails with screws, and wherever a stile lines up with a stud, add a screw there too. Between studs, use panel adhesive rather than screws, since lath and plaster is not solid enough to hold a screw well on its own; hold the stile with a few finishing pins while the adhesive sets.

1 tube · Panel adhesive

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1 box · Finishing pins 40mm

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1 box · Wood screws 40mm

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LP-08Fix the bottom rail and finish at the skirtingFit the bottom rail so it sits flush against the skirting or replaces the skirting cap, depending on your design. Fix into studs the same way as the top rail, using adhesive to fill any gaps caused by an uneven wall. Check the whole frame is square and firmly fixed before moving on.

1 box · Wood screws 40mm

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1 tube · Grab adhesive

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LP-09Fill, caulk and sandFill every screw and pin hole with wood filler and let it dry fully. Run a bead of decorators caulk along the joint between the panelling and the wall to hide any gaps left by the uneven plaster surface. Sand all filled areas smooth once dry.

1 tub · Wood filler

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1 tube · Decorators caulk

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1 pack · Sandpaper

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LP-10Prime and paintApply one coat of primer over the whole panelling and let it dry fully. Follow with two coats of satin or eggshell paint, leaving each coat to dry before the next. Cut in carefully around edges and skirting for a neat finish.

1 litre · Primer

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1 2.5L tin · Satin or eggshell paint

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1 each · Brush and roller set

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LP-11Tidy upBag up offcuts and packaging, and vacuum sawdust and filler dust from the floor and skirting. Remove dust sheets and give the room a final wipe down. Clean any adhesive or filler off your tools before it hardens.

1 pack · Bin bags

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PART OF A BIGGER PROJECT

Add panelling or a dado rail to a room

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